[MCR] Uto Peak, Rogers Pass, July 3, 2013

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the SW Ridge and descended the NW Ridge of Uto Peak
in Rogers Pass today with Ali Haeri.  Both
ridges are dry and in good shape for climbing.

The trail up from the valley is mostly snow free until about
100m below the Sir Donald bivy site where it becomes mostly snow covered.  The Sir Donald bivy site is still snow
covered but the food storage locker and toilet are open, good snow camping is available, and some rocks are exposed for cooking or hanging out.  (The toilet at the Uto-Sir Donald Col is
still closed, however the col is snow free.)

The scree slopes leading up toward the Uto-Sir Donald Col are
still mostly snow covered with firm snow and an ice axe is recommended.  Lightweight crampons may be useful following
a cool night.  The descent from the NW Ridge of Uto into the bivy basin is also mostly snow covered and provides easy travel on steep snow, but an ice axe and possibly crampons are recommended. 

The NW ridge of Sir Donald appears to be snow free and in
shape for climbing.  Expect a bit of wet
rock, and a few spots requiring kicking steps on snow in the upper section of
the ridge.  The Bypass descent route
looks like it still needs a bit of time to dry out and saw a significant snow
& rock avalanche cross it yesterday afternoon, so descending the upper NW
ridge will probably be the best choice for a bit longer.

Most other routes in the area look to be in good shape as
well.  Enjoy!

Conrad
Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain
Guide
Visitor
Safety Technician, Glacier National Park
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