[MCR] Hatteras Sugarplum Group

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent a week guiding with Kirsten Knetechel and Alex Geary in the 
Hatteras Sugarplum Group for the BMC mountaineering Camp. This remote 
area is located SW of the International Basin Group in the Bobbie 
Burns area of the Purcells.

The weather was very hot all week with no precipitation. The snow was 
quickly retreating from many of the peaks and glaciers. A spectacular 
camp was setup  NE of Sugarplum at the base of a glacier directly 
below  the Pirouette Pinnacles and below a small lake. Access was 
easy here to the peaks of the area.

The rock was a mix of good granite, quartzite, sandstone and slate. 
Sometimes all on the same day.

The main climbs done included: Pirouette pinnacles #2 and #3, (though 
one small group climbed #1 and #2) Arabesque sub pinnacle to SE of 
#1, Squab Peak (NW to SE), Mt Hatteras via E face, Snowman Peak and 
the Snowman -Crinkletop traverse.

One large group attempted the SW ridge of Sugarplum from the 
Squab-Sugarplum col, but ran out of time just short of a SW summit.
During the first week a group climbed Arabesque #1, via the SE ridge.

Snowman Peak was climbed by the West ridge, ( some short pitches 
of  easy 5th class) descent was done by the same route requiring one 
60m rappel, and another 30 metre rappel to avoid the upper steep 
steps. The traverse over Crinkletop to the Hatteras col was a long 
day (14-17 hours) requiring a few lowers along the complex exfoliated ridge.

Squab peak was best climbed from the Sugarplum col going SE. It is 
best descended beyond the main summit down a steeper snow slope to 
the glacier.(Shrund opening up here)
The lower part of the Squab ridge leading to the true Hatteras col 
was quite loose and exposed. Though possible we took the easier snow 
slope option.

The Pirouettes were gained between #2 and #3, and descended by a snow 
patch from #3.

The east Hatteras glacier is becoming quite broken  on the midsection 
where a convexity has exposed some large crevasses. This may become 
easier as the snow line recedes.
Mt Hatteras required 4 X 60 metre pitches of snow to 50deg+ to reach 
the summit of this, the highest peak in the area.

Good weather was blessing as much of the granite and quartzite is 
lichen covered.

Peter Amann






Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann at incentre.net
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