[MCR] Lake O'Hara Popes Peak

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Friends Jason, Kendra and I climbed the Murray Toft classic N Face couloir on Popes Peak today.

Overall, we experienced a settled and supportive snow pack where the depth was more than 1m. The couloir has slid to Sz 2 during the last storm cycle. There is a runnel up to 1m deep in the centre of the couloir. There was some small rockfall throughout the day caused by melting of ice on the rockwalls each side. The crux was 10m of near vertical snice. It was possible to get a piton before the crux.  The serac is foreboding and we spent little time exiting on easier ice to the left.

The rappels down the E ridge are in good shape.  Only one had to be dug out of the snow. The descent slopes took great steps.

The snow around the Narao shoulder was the least favourite part of the descent. A wet and unsupportive thin snowpack.  

Brent Peters
Apprentice Alpine Guide
CAA Level 2
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone

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The final belay beside the serac.