[MCR] Jasper Hidden Valley Route updates

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Mon Jun 24 20:44:29 EDT 2013


Spent the last two days working on route repair and development in Hidden
Valley. Some new routes and changes in the area include:

³Hilfe² 5.4 ­ In early June, Guy St. Denis and I bolted a two pitch route on
the Fossil Bed wall about 75m before the Schoolhouse Rock area. First pitch
31m 5 bolts. Second pitch 20m 4 bolts. Rappel off ring bolts or walk to top.
Very nice easy route for a fun option to the schoolhouse area.

³Easy Pickin¹s² and ³Blown Away² now have new rappel bolts. The old hardware
store variety bolts have been replaced with stainless hardware and Fixe ring
bolts or stainless carabiners (permanent Lock-tite on all the new hardware).
New second pitches have been added above by C & S Shokoples. Three
variations to finish now exist above these routes: leftmost pitch 2om 5.3 ­
1 bolt / Centre line has thin slab and face to 5.10, 20m ­ 4 bolts /
rightmost pitch follows a great water worn seam at 5.6, 20m.

A new route appeared on the Intermediate Slabs right of ³Blown Away² a
couple of years ago. It goes at 5.10, 25m and has Fixe rings on the top.

New Fixe stainless rappel bolts have been placed on top of the Basic Slabs
at Schoolhouse and the old 5/16² self drive bolts have been removed. After
last years disappearance of bolts at Morro Slabs all of the new bolts on top
of Schoolhouse and Spiderman Slabs have now permanent grade Locktite and
epoxy to keep the bolts from being removed. I replaced the stolen bolts at
Morro last summer and put permanent grade Lock-tite and epoxy on all of the
new bolts.

The Back Wall area is now fully equipped with Fixe rappel hangers on almost
all of the routes. The old rusty chains on ³This Bolt¹s for You² have been
removed along with the 35 year old bolt hangers on the old self-drive bolts.
The Metolius hangers have also been replaced with new Fixe rappel rings on
top of the route.

My old trad route between ³This Bolt¹s for You² and ³Duo Arboretum² was
retrofitted as a sport route by C & S Shokoples this weekend and goes at
about 5.7 on excellent rock. This gives a good starter lead for those who
find the other sport routes on this wall a bit too much. Earlier this summer
an initial protection bolt was added at the bottom of ³Crescent Crack² to
eliminate the ground fall potential on this excellent trad route. The rusted
old bolts at the top of the route had stainless hardware installed last
summer so this route is now in great shape.

The water in the pond at the beginning of the hike in is about as high as it
ever gets. Tricky start and finish to the day...

Don¹t forget to pitch in and help those who were or still are dealing with
water and flood damage in Southern Alberta...

Cyril Shokoples
ACMG/IFMGA
Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com








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