[MCR] Columbia Icefields - Mt Athabasca 8-13 October

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Fellow guide Patrick Delaney and I completed the alpine mountaineering section for the Yamnuska Mountain Skills semester on Sunday. We travelled the Athabasca, Little Athabasca (North), Boundary and AA glaciers, including summits of Boundary Peak. On Saturday, we were joined by fellow guides Matt Mueller and MB Board for the NF Bypass and Silverhorn routes on Mt. Athabasca.

Temperatures ranged from above freezing at valley bottom to -11C on Saturday am at 3400m. Snow coverage is variable due to wind transport. We observed up to 50cms on the Boundary and Little Athabasca glaciers. The bottom of the snowpack is starting to facet and wind slabs are prevalent although variable. When ascending the left gullies to gain the N Ridge, we noted multiple settlements. It was possible to dig down here for good ice screw belays. The upper mountain of Athabasca is covered in new snow making for interesting mixed conditions. The normal descent down the west slopes of the AA Col have more variable hard slab.

Observations of the more challenging alpine routes are consistent with previous reports. Expect dry snow covered rock with little ice. There is now a visible gap in the ice on the classic NF of Athabasca.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures