[MCR] Mt. Balfour, Wapta Icefields

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sun Sep 8 11:09:39 EDT 2013




> Spent a few days last week in the RJ Ritchie hut and climbed the North ridge of Mt. Balfour.

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> The 1904 route is mostly 3rd and 4th class with some easy ice/snow climbing towards the summit and has its fair share of questionable rock. It was about 9 hours hut to hut and we descended the Southeast ridge until we could get back down to the glacier on the east side (normal ski ascent line). This required 2 exciting rappels (ice anchors) into and out of a couple of filled in bergschrunds which provided the crux for the climb. A recommended outing if you've done most of the classic ascents in the area.

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> As to be expected the glaciers are very dry with most crevasses being quite easy to spot with clear visibility. The hut was in great shape.

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> Have fun!

>

> Mike Stuart

> IFMGA Mountain Guide

> Mike at CanadianAlpineGuides.com

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> IMG_2559

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