[MCR] Tentalus Enchainment - West Coast

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Tentalus Enchainement (above Squamish) - Last Friday / Saturday with 2 guests.

Very dry conditions as expected. Main crux at this time of year is to get into the rock from the snow and onto the snow from the rock (large overhanging rimaye, with a biiiiig gaps). 

(1) For the approach, took a line on the left side of the ridge after stepping from the snow onto the rock (only a big step), then traversing left 100 m through ledges, and climb an obvious 50 m chimney to go back in the ridge (topo recommands a start on the West side of the ridge but was not practical in this season (or I did not look hard enough...).
(2) For descent from Tentalus, prefer the High route, just below the ridge line passing at the base of the witch's tooth and the base of Dione's butress (stay as high as possible/practical) which is the #20 route on Alpine Select (K. McLane Guide).It was not possible to get on the glacier below Dione as indicated on route #20 because of the rimaye situation. The only escape was to climb a 45 deg ramp up to the lower section of Dione's East ridge (Class 4) to reach Dione's ridge, approximatly 15 meters above to the 30 m rappel station leading to the base of Dione's normal route. After that, the descent from the base of the last rappel is clear except for the 1st large crevasse which needs to be negotiated through a good bridge on the West side (near the rock). Another system of crevasses below needs to be negociated on a 1.5 m wide strip of solid snow between two other crevasses. 

This route is great as you are always on fair quality rock (never felt unsafe, even if another party would have been above me...). Easy pro (I had 3 cams : Metolius # 6; #7; Black Diamond .4 cams and a set of nuts (very small were usefull as the rock is sometime compact). Lot's of slings&cordelette as ususal for the Alpine...left quite a few on the way.

Bivouac about 50 m below the North ridge of the Tentalus; great platform for all of us with water nearby. 

A very esthetic traverse !

Bruno Bagneres
MG, North Vancouver.    
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