[MCR] Rockies, Mt Robson South Face attempt

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

I guided an attempt on the South Face of Mt Robson Sept 16-19.

We approached the Forster Hut through rains on Sept 16th. We got wet and the King got a fresh icing of snow above 9,500'.

Sept 17th we rested at the hut and dried out.

Sept 18th we made our attempt. Frozen mud and verglas saw us strapping on crampons half way up Little Robson. The Schwartz Ledges were verglased but fast, we ran across them in about 5 minutes with the crampons on. I don't think that they will be drying to bare rock again this season. We chose higher Schwartz Ledges, pretty darn close the the serac, and that is the way to go, I figure.

We turned around in a white out at 3400 metres just were we had to commit to the glaciated slopes leading to the top. We couldn't see anything and the KIng kept his head in the cloud for the rest of the day.

Sept 19th we trudged down from the hut to find the grill closed for the day at the Mt Robson Cafe, 4 pm, bummer, no cheeseburger! The King had his head in the cloud again.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com

Little Robson behind, Sept 18th:

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