[MCR] Bugaboos - East Creek Approach

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hi,

We were camping in East Creek below the South Howser Tower from July 31-August 3.  The approach to the East Creek Camp (Beckey-Chouinard, Pigeon Feathers and West Face of North Howser) is still mostly snow covered and in generally good shape however it is melting out fast.  There was a short section of bare ice on the lower glacier but many people were still able to navigate it without crampons if the snow was not too frozen. The icy section was growing bigger by the day.

Of note, the icefall/serac that threatens the skiers right hand side of the approach looks particularly rugged this year.  It has been shedding small (TV sized) chunks quite regularly and there is evidence of some pretty large events from earlier this summer. We gave it a wide berth to the skiers left and didn't waste any time while travelling underneath it.

Also, the last ~100m of the approach to the West Ridge of Pigeon has a few bridged crevasses opening up.  We managed to avoid them (for now) by detouring a bit to the climbers right and heading straight up to the start of the ridge.

See attached photo of South Howser serac and Pigeon - Howser col directly above climbers.

Marc Piché
Mountain Guide

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