[MCR] Leaning Towers

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hi All,

I guided a trip into the Leaning Towers in the Purcell Wilderness
Conservancy from Aug 3-8th, accessing them from Dewar Creek. The road to the
trailhead has been worked on after the spring washouts and is now fully
passable with a high clearance vehicle, otherwise you'll need to park and
hike an extra km or two. The outfitter in the area has cleared all deadfall
off the trail, and regularly travels this route by horseback to the hot
springs. 

Early am glacier travel required crampons, and glacial retreat appears
substantial compared to photos only a few years old - meaning glacier routes
to access climbs may not be the same as what you might have remembered them
to be if you've been there before or are relying on beta a few years old. We
climbed Twomey Peak and also put up a new route on the East Face of
Sharkshead Tower, ascended both summits, descended the east face via the
rock couloirs that separates the two summits.  Additional rappels from the
nunatak below the east face allowed us to bypass the steep and heavily
crevassed glacier section.  Access between the Towers and Dewar Pass seems
most enjoyable if a high contour around the moraines is maintained. The hot
springs are real treat after descending from Dewar Pass.

One other party of two reported that they did two routes on the east face of
Hall Peak.

Low impact (i.e. leave no trace) camping is mandatory in this beautiful,
well preserved wilderness area.

Enjoy the summer!

 

Kirk Mauthner

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Basecamp Innovations Ltd

PO Box 399 Invermere, BC

Canada V0A 1K0

www.basecampinnovations.com

250.342.6042

 

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