[MCR] East Ridge of Mt Patterson, Rockies, August 12, 2014

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Wed Aug 13 00:03:08 EDT 2014


Guided an ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Patterson today with a descent
via Delta Creek back to the road.

The route is dry and in good shape and has seen a few ascents in the last
week. Other than the glacier at the bottom, all snow patches can be avoided.

There are few steps of bare ice on the low angle glacier that gets you to
the base of the 5th class climbing. We put on crampons but you might still
be able to sneak around these bits on snow. The glacier descent heading
down into Delta Creek has an 80m steeper roll that is also bare ice, so
steel crampons were useful here.

The Patterson East Ridge climbing route has been set up to descend all the
steepest climbing sections with 30m rappels off of pitons, rock horns, and
the occasional bolts, but it would still involve lots of 3rd and 4th class
downclimbing.
--
Conrad Janzen
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
Banff Mountain Guides <http://www.banffmountainguides.com>
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