[MCR] Coire dubh

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the integral route of Coire Dubh today with two guests.

Good ice, both on the lower route and in mixed sections leading up to the saddle. 
There are many variations and to attempt describing the line we climbed would be futile.
However tracks indicate that it's been a busy place, several options have been climbed.

There is not that much for snow, at least none available for transport. 

All the snow has undergone some level of slabbing. We released 3 small picnic table sized hard slabs 20 to 40cm thick.
None were remote or accidental and all of them were isolated and released while I was well protected by our rope system. 

There had been a large scale cycle on the face in the not so distant past.

Currently, I'm certain there are still isolated slabs that could be triggered 
and plenty of hard surfaces ready to receive new snow. But all in all, despite the general hazard trend most of the slabs had released at least in part or have started breaking down into facets.

The main usual large slab leading up to the base of the last ice pitch of the lower route is very strong.

We played it a bit safer than other parties by working the terrain a bit more but to be honest I don't think it's going anywhere at the moment. Might be a different story in the spring when water starts to lubricate the bed surface.

patrick delaney
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures