[MCR] Cascade waterfall-Banff- Friday, january 10th.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed Cascade under the grey skies this afternoon. Found it somewhat snowier and “climbier" than I expected. It seemed like no one had been on it for awhile and it felt rather old school/natural!

The climbing was all good except for the last, usually cruxy bit. There is still water running under the “straw” and a brittle little roof has formed above that. Mediocre placements in the hollow ice and lots of cracking and dinner plating in the roof made it feel like pretty sporty grade 3 for a few moves. There was also a nasty stiff windslab before the last little pitch that I had to work pretty hard to get around. The thought of being swept over the route was sufficient inspiration to make the effort.

There had been a couple of medium size avalanches(at least a few days old I would guess if not older) that had run to the top of the very last little pitch and another to the top of the main 2 pitches. Smaller avalanches had run onto the middle of the lower route at some point too. However, the upper bowls above Cascade and Rogans were looking very white with no old fracture lines or wind effect visible around noon. 

Given the forecast for some snow and the high winds that have already begun howling through the Bow valley at 4pm, I would certainly leave the route alone for awhile till we see how much loading happens up there. Even if the terrain above the route cleans out there is a lot of snow on the traverse over to the Rogans rappel. With new snow and wind it would be conceivable to have windslabs on that traverse in places. I bet that getting swept off that traverse would be even less fun than it sounds!

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan at telus.net