[MCR] Louise falls 140113

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided an ascent of Louise Falls Yesterday 140113.

Winds were hard at work all day blowing snow around. We walked up the trail that weaves through the stand of trees on the climbers right. It was nearly entirely drifted in, with snow just below the knees. Considering how the slopes below the route were well loaded, the walk off must off been a bit touchy yesterday, we avoided it and rappelled to return to our packs.

We were followed by a party trying to climb the left hand line, as we climbed the right. 

The party of three got stuck by a 70m rope somewhere in the middle of the second pitch. 

Belay locations are key, longer is not necessarily better or faster. Safe belays, sheltered from overhead hazards should be a leaders top priority after protecting the line. Protecting the line means, protecting the seconds, that means use the proper gear to tow up two people (skinny modern single ropes, with less stretch than half or god forbid twin ropes) and think about  the "what if" someone fell.

Furthermore with a climber attached to a single half rope while seconding the pillar and a belayer at the top of the route, a fall would be an instant epic, rope stretch would have the climber slamming against the low angle ice below. Combined with poor Communication and now a lack of rope to do a rescue, a team would be kinda hooped if the second was injured, especially if the falling climber took out the other second on the way. At least there is plenty of cell reception!

On Louise falls, there is more overhead hazard than on most popular summer alpine routes that are capped by cornice or serac features. Despite this climbers still choose to "plow"  directly up the middle of the slope below the route and climb with complete disregard for their safety by belaying in the most god awful locations, even after kind softly spoken suggestions.

With collapsing pillars approaching climbers or bum sliding families would likely get a good idea of what it might of felt like to have Rome fall on someone. The size of the ice pillars would likely smear you and your team right back down the direct line of miserably steep walking.

Take the line on the right, the walking is better and even if it's not perfectly safe it might provide enough shelter next time the daggers come down, It's happened before and it's going to happen again!!!!

Patrick Delaney
Acmg alpine guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Sent from my iPhone