[MCR] Lessons of oka

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided an ascent of Lessons of Oka today with my friend Keith.
The route has not changed much I'm certain since the last posted MCR a few days ago.

Would just like to add that there was not much for snow on either left or right of the approach slope. The approach slope, I would not define as heavily loaded either.

On the descent we enjoyed new bolted anchors. One anchor at the top of the main corner (before the last pitch) provides a 30m rappel over the steep face down to the base of the route. From the base, another down 40m (follow the ice line that heads slightly climbers right).
Then full 70m down to your pack below the approach ice.
Alternatively, an old double ring bolt is visible 15m up the approach ice on the left (right if your facing up) and could be used with double 60m ropes to avoid down climbing with shorter ropes.

There was no sun on the routes today and the hang fire up high on Murchison Falls is minimal at the moment. Virtual reality has a bit more to consider if sunny.
The raps avoid the overhead completely on your return trip.

All in all a low stress day, a great route!

Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures