[MCR] Bugaboos, Purcell Mountains, July 8-9, 2014

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent two days climbing on Crescent Spire and Snowpatch Spire in the
Bugaboos with Dean Flick.

Most classic lines such as the NE Ridge or Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire,
West face routes on Snowpatch, W Ridge on Pigeon and all routes in the
Crescent Towers are dry or have some minor snow patches which are easily
avoided. The Snowpatch route might still need a little time to dry out.

The Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is easy snow travel at this point with the
bergschrund just starting to open up on the climbers left side. Also easy
travel on snow down from the W Ridge of Pigeon via the Bugaboo Glacier with
the normal crevasse hazards to negotiate along the way. At this point light
weight boots, crampons and ice axe were all that was needed to get around
on the the snow, however with this heat there may be some ice patches
showing up soon.

The Kraus-McCarthy descent off Snowpatch works with a single 60m rope, just
make sure you have knots in the ends since a couple of the rappels are rope
stretchers.

Loose snow sluffing on steep snow faces later in the day as well as a large
cornice failure off the top of South Howser were observed.
--
Conrad Janzen
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide
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