[MCR] Mt Fay

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hello MCR subscribers,

My guest and I climbed the West Ridge route on Mt. Fay this morning 6/23.  We approached via the Perren route. Seemed like we were the first visitors of the season.

Observations:
The log creek crossing at the end of the lake is in decent shape – no soakers.

Approach ledges are still holding snow but most are avoidable by walking around and deviating from the cairned trail.  The chains/bolts on the headwall are in good shape and we gave each bolt  quick inspection and all looked to be ok.  The final step to the last anchor (just before the glacier after the traverse) is holding steep snow and we protected a rising traverse with pickets.

Travel on the glacier on the afternoon of 6/22 was upper shin deep post holing in isothermal snow.  Coverage on the glacier was good and there were no visible sag lines over crevasses where we travelled.  Steeper south and west aspects are still shedding snow, especially in the afternoon heat, and there is still lots of snow above 2600m on all aspects.  

Despite it being +3c at the Neil Colgan hut at 0230 this morning, the snow was mostly supportive and travel was quick over to the base of the route.  We made good steps and time up the face to the ridge and easily crossed the bergschrund just right of centre.  All other routes on the north face have large cornices threatening the climbing lines. Except for the shorter rock steps the west ridge is still holding quite a bit of snow.

We descended the same way and the supportive crust on the glacier was already breaking down by 0800 this morning.

Hut is in great shape and the new renos look fantastic.

Creek crossing


Lower Approach


slope to headwall


Fay up close

West Ridge


Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
Rockies Ice & Alpine Specialists
www.rockies-ice.com
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