[MCR] Cookoos nest direct.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Guided Cookoos Nest direct today.
May have climbed a new pitch at the top of the first 70m of ice, a steep overhanging corner system with some loose blocks but good gear.

In general, the climbing felt much harder than the original grade given in books.

The ice goatee at the top of pitch 3 ( the one after the single bolt protected crux pitch) is on it's last legs. It's fractured and doesn't take gear and is turning into "snice" at the top out. You top out about 15 feet from the bolt.

Overall ice is plastic and turf still frozen.

10 to 20cm of new snow has fallen in the Kicking Horse Canyon during this stormy period.

We noticed some light sloughing on Pretty Nuts at 17:00 as some sun was  finally coming out as we walked away from a quick hot lap on the first pitch.

The ice on pretty nuts was perfectly plastic great stick even with dull blades.

The day was cloudy with a high of 1.5C. But the snow was surprisingly light given the warm temps.

Driving back trough Field BC, all the climbing looked milky white with plenty of new snow.

Cheers

Patrick Delaney
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures







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