[MCR] Ice Climbs in Field

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Sat Nov 22 19:53:17 EST 2014


Hi Everyone,

Fellow guides Marco DeLaselle, Jeff Honig and I went for leisurely day out
ice climbing in Field, B.C. today.

Warm chinook temps throughout the Bow Valley although marginally cooler in
Field this morning at 0930, temp was -1.0 and very light snowfall most of
the day.  Guinness Gully is in good shape but not surprisingly, the first
pitch is extremely wet but still accepts good screws, a couple of stubbies
are be useful until it in fills later on.  The rest of the route is well
filled in and takes great screws and climbs much drier.

As Lilla M and Marco D reported a few days ago, there is low avalanche
hazard on Guinness and the rest of the Beer climbs on Mt. Dennis for the
time being as it is still way below threshold making for slick and awkward
walking on the approach and the gully to last crux pitch of Guinness.

Many of the rest of the routes in Field are looking good - Carlsberg is
definitely climbable and Cascade Kronenberg is developing nicely but the
daggers are not  connected to the ground just yet.  Pilsner Pillar isn't
formed but the mixed routes adjacent to it would be workable.  Massey's
(photo attached) is in, Cool Spring is there as well but looks fierce and
Superbock is surprisingly barely there at all.

Twisted (photo attached - pardon the blurry quality) is looking quite good
and we observed a party on it today.  Silk Tassel is looking fat as well.

Lots of people out enjoying the good conditions and low avalanche hazard.
Just be heads up when the next real storm comes or if we recieve
incremental accumulation accompanied by wind or warm temperatures, the
snowpack will be of prime concern and the hazard invariably will increase.

Take Care,

Paddy Jerome
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
106 - 1080 A Cougar Creek Drive
Canmore, Alberta T1W 1A4
www.canadianrockies-mountainguides.com
(C) 403 609 0795
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