[MCR] Pigeon Spire - Bugaboos

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hi All,

Yesterday we climbed West Ridge of Pigeon Spire in a day from Invermere,
access via Bugaboo Glacier. AM snow was fully supportive and there are a
couple of tricky bridge crossings which we chose to completely avoid in the
PM heat. Most of the ridge is free of snow until you turn the corner onto
the north side to gain access to the summit, where it is still full on
winter with plenty of ice and snow. We kicked ankle-to-boot-top steps around
this section and cleaned out cracks for gear, again kicking steps in snow
right to the summit. Spectacular bluebird day.

No crampons were used for the descent and we used the Snowpatch rock bypass
to avoid the heavily crevassed glacier all the way from the rock rib that
extends from the south face of Snowpatch, down to the base of Son of
Snowpatch. It should be noted that the upper section of the rock bypass goes
through very unconsolidated talus and scree and is generally unstable -
careful footing and minimizing exposure is paramount.

Other parties up in the Bugaboos were on the sunny aspects of Snowpatch, the
Crescent Spires and one party gave the Ice Hose a pass due to overhanging
bergschrund difficulties and word has it that no one has been on the
Bugaboo-Snowpatch for a number of weeks now due to constant rockfall.

Enjoy the great weather!

Cheers,

 

Kirk Mauthner

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Basecamp Innovations Ltd

PO Box 399 Invermere, BC

Canada V0A 1K0

www.basecampinnovations.com

250.342.6042

 

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