[MCR] Mt Fay N Face

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Friends Glenn, Maarten, and I climbed a direct line up Mt Fay's left
couloir (Roth/Bern, Chouinard).

Conditions today were Scottish. The rain changed to snow at 2900m and there
was limited refreeze. There was about 3cm of new storm snow above the
freezing level. Since last Sunday the snow line on the glacier has risen to
2950m and the bridges over the crevasses between the top of the Perren
Ledges along the direct approach to the north face were unsupportive. The W
Ridge was predominantly snow covered and the descent slope was more icy
than last week. The bergshrund is still filled in but the bridge was soft
and had failed left and right of where we crossed. There are also some open
and hidden crevasses on the flat summit glacier. We kept a rope on to
traverse this terrain.

Of note, since my last MCR the two fixed rappels on the W Ridge descent
have been replaced. We found the first one on the ledge just below the old
slung triangular block. The second one was above the old slung boulder.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
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