[MCR] Rockies - Abbott Pass Conditions

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hey Everyone,

We've had a few of our guides working and climbing out of the Abbott Pass
Hut area the past few days. Yesterday 2 Guides did a single day traverse
from Lake O'Hara up via the Huber Ledges to Victoria, descending via the
hut while the another of our groups finished up a 3 day Abbott Pass Alpine
program, and descended from the hut after climbing Victoria the day prior.

Conditions on the peak were excellent, and the snow from last weeks storm
had mercifully spruced things up a bit. Travel up the Huber ledges was dry
and water available in lots of places between Wiwaxy gap and the toe of the
Huber Glacier. The recent storm snow made for excellent travel while we
ascended the glacier to the ridge on Victoria providing supportive steps
overtop of the glacier ice or older snow surfaces below.

The bergschrund was easily crossed, as 2 loose snow avalanches from the
storm had come down and filled in a good portion of the hole immediately
below the line of ascent. Easy to dig to ice above the schrund for screw or
v-thread anchors. Above the bergschrund, the usual scrappy gullies still
had plenty of snow in them and we short roped comfortably, step kicking in
moist supportive snow though out in about ~10-15cm of snow (up to 40cm deep
in some of the bigger drifts).

We left the crampons on for about 2/3 of the journey back down Victorias
summit ridge to the Abbott Pass Hut. Tough to tell if the residual storm
snow was hiding bare ice in places as we down climbed through some of the
rock steps on the ridge. Slowed us down a bit, but seemed least scary
option, and less of a pain then taking them on an off.

As we passed the sickle on the way to the hut, we were able to pull the
crampons and carry on the descent without them from there.

None of our trips over the past week have even contemplated Lefroy. Looks
like a great place to get into trouble. Rockfall would be a significant
concern. Huber however, looked like it would climb well on snow or ice
right to the summit with some cooler temps and an early start.

Victoria is back in good shape after the storms last week! Have fun out
there!

www.cloudnineguides.com/climb-mount-victoria-and-lefroy


*Mike Trehearne *
IFMGA Mountain Guide

*Simon Meis*
ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide / Ski Guide

*Kyle Chartrand*
ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide


<http://www.cloudnineguides.com>
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