[MCR] Ice climbing conditions - Rockies

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

The Canadian Mountain Ski Guide’s Guide Training Ice Course visited a number of ice climbing venues between January 5th and 9th 2015.
 
Bear Spirit: 
 
The two central pillars provided good, hooked out ice climbing lines. Overall there is less ice on the far right hand mixed routes. 
 
Corie Dubh: 
 
After the first ice pitch the majority of the lower angle ice is covered in snow and generally provided supportive footing with a few sections of exposed lower angle ice leading to the first mixed pitch.  Following the 10cm snowfall and wind on Jan 6th and 7th only evidence of small sluffs out of steep terrain was observed in the gully.
 
Aquarius: 
 
Driving into the South Ghost was manageable and generally easy for what it can be. Minimal drifting as of Jan 7th. The approach pitches were well formed and wet, with the final steep pitch demanding delicate climbing in certain sections to avoid fracturing a thin pillar. Rainbow Serpent and Fearful Symmetry were not formed. 
 
Weeping Wall: 
 
Sniveling Gully: 
The first fixed anchor was in poor condition and teams opted to build an ice anchor here. Finding sheltered belays helped to manage sluffing of recent 10cm of snow and dagger fall hazard. Overall good ice conditions on this route. 
 
Weeping Wall Right Hand:
In typical conditions. Good ice. 
 
Moonlight:
 
Thin conditions for the first 25m. Short (10cm) screws required for adequate protection. 
 
Louise Falls: 
 
Daggers still threaten the climb. The right hand pillar was very wet and would provide challenging climbing. Water flow over the left hand pillar has refreshed the climb. 
 
Junkyards: 
 
With construction occurring in the area climbers are encouraged to utilize the powerline approach trail rather than walking on the road to access the area.

Information compiled and written by course candidates.

Stephen Holeczi
Mountain Guide



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