[MCR] Johnston Canyon

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Spent the last day of a two day program at the head of the canyon today. We walked in the dark the footing was comfortable and secure with crampons. 

It was a busy place today and to be honest besides the main falls and some of the immediate terrain right of the falls, fine for small or well managed groups, the zone well described by Eric Dumerac in his recent post, that offer good climbing is well worth it for small or well managed groups.

Currently The Center left and main large pillar are no place i would of wanted to be hanging out all day, on and especially not below.

However, there was a large group of novices, shoulder to shoulder, belaying and climbing for a solid 4 hours, they appeared comfortable or maybe unaware of the potential hazard or the risk they were exposed to.

A good option for larger groups who walk to the falls and find them busy, is some nice less traveled flows closer the mouth of the canyon, they are visible on the left as you walk in.
However, in heavy snow periods they can pose a bit of an avalanche hazard.
Today, there was a good path down from the trail and thick ice to stand on and the conditions would of been favourable.

Also of note, the large well traveled pillar on the left hand side of the main flow found on the right side of the canyon has a crack near the roof. I believe the crack occurred today not long after the loud audible settlement of the last standing central pillar that was being top roped.

The large pillar has a good base, but I've observed it come down before when it looked solid, give this beast respect.

As for the one on the right, it now sounds very concerning in the first half.  

Limit your exposure to overhead hazard, and like Eric eluded, don't let the debris on the ground lead you to believe there is no overhead hazard still. We have both observed catastrophic failure of ice in this area, not unlike many others! 
Finally, don't allow pressure to climb dictate your risk tolerance.

The debris at the base says a bit, it tells you that the pillars break and that debris can kill you. What's above your head should remind you to take shelter and limit your exposure.

Cheers

Patrick Delaney
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures 



-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_1725.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 144335 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <https://pairlist6.pair.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20150111/7c18b472/attachment-0004.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------



-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_1726.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 141063 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <https://pairlist6.pair.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20150111/7c18b472/attachment-0005.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------



-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_1727.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 150103 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <https://pairlist6.pair.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20150111/7c18b472/attachment-0006.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------



-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_1729.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 148484 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <https://pairlist6.pair.net/pipermail/mcr/attachments/20150111/7c18b472/attachment-0007.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------



Patrick Delaney
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures