[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine North Ridge - Rockies, July 14, 2015

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Parks Canada Visitor Safety climbed the North Ridge of Mt Assiniboine on
July 14, 2015. Conditions were dry right to the summit. Some rime and
verglass was present above the Red Band from overnight showers, but this
melted off during the descent. No crampons were needed. The "Gmoser
Highway" approach from Assiniboine Lodge has a couple steep snow patches to
cross near the bottom but the rest is dry. An ice axe may be useful here.
The Hind hut is clean and in great shape.

Following discussions with BC Parks and other stakeholders, this climb was
undertaken to clean up the old rappel slings, aging fixed anchors and
random pieces of gear scattered along the North Ridge. Two full backpacks
of old nylon, rusted pitons, carabiners, rap rings and fixed nuts were
removed leaving the route in clean condition (see photos). With some
exceptions the gear removed was in poor condition. Four permanent chain
anchors were installed where the majority of climbers rappel while
descending the ridge. These anchors replaced large nests of old tat and
rusted pitons. Significant cleaning was also done at these rappels sites to
minimize rockfall in the future, although plenty of loose rock remains.

The locations of these anchors are shown in the attached photo. Each anchor
is set up for a 25m rappel. The rappel anchor in the Red Band is located
climbers left of the normal ascent gullies and a good trail and cairns lead
down to this anchor. This location should help minimize exposure to
rockfall from parties above, as well as necessitate the building of clean
anchors on the ascent when using the right hand gullies. The upper three
anchors are almost directly on the ridge and should be found easily.
Parties climbing the route this summer should not expect to see any other
old anchors or fixed protection on the ridge, and should be prepared to
create their own anchors in all other locations as needed.
--
Parks Canada Visitor Safety
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks
*Parks Mountain Safety*
<http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/mtn/securiteenmontagne-mountainsafety/index.aspx>
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