[MCR] Adamants and Gothics July 19-26th BMC camp

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Just returned from a week of mountaineering in the Adamants. From a 
spectacular camp in the Adamant meadows below the toe of the Adamant 
Glacier we climbed peaks in the Gothics from the south side. The 
weather was challenging with rain or some showers on most days.

 From a camp at 6350ft (1935m) access to the peaks in the Gothics 
were attained via the glaciers on the south sides of Thor, Fria, and Wotan.
Azimuth Peak was easily attained via the Adamant Glacier with several 
routes up either the N face or a small sub peak to the south, which 
offered some good rock and connected to the main summit.

Of note was the lack of snow and the rapid change of some of the 
standard access points. Azimuth notch was not descendible due to 
hanging cornice, melt out and rock fall. An easier access  to the 
Adamant glacier  requires continuing along the Azimuth ridge north 
past a narrow section (fin of good granite) to gain a small glacier 
that descends left and gains the lower glacier. This is most likely 
the route skiers would use in the winter. The glacier leading to The 
east col on Blackfriar or the south side of Mt Adamant is quite bare 
and broken.

Access to the peaks of the Gothics is by a meadow above the toe of 
the Adamant glacier,(shown as a lake on the map) and gaining  a col 
near the Toadstool. This route is reported to be somewhat scrappy and 
loose due to the snow melt.  Mt  Fria was climbed by the West ridge 
using the  rapidly melting snow slopes on the pocket glacier under 
Wotan. The ridge is generally 3rd to 4th class with some short 
exposed sections. It is very lichen covered and is slippery when wet.

Mt Thor was climbed by the South ridge via some steep scree and 
grassy slopes ending with a short pitch to gain the upper snow 
slopes. The snow leads easily to the summit block, though as this may 
melt out. The E ridge can be gained as well below the summit. A short 
rappel was used at the toe of the snow to regain the steep grassy 
area. (20 metres)

One party climbed Post Peak via the glacier on the west side of Thor, 
gaining a steep col between Post and Gargoyle. The bergshrund on Post 
Peak was rapidly melting adding some complexities in gaining the ridge.

Many of the routes that require snow access are becoming more 
challenging due to the hot summer.

This is a spectacular area that is rarely visited. The views of Sir 
Sanford from our camp were certainly amazing.

Here is a short video of the views from Azimuth Peak.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX3BzFZezks

Peter Amann
Kirsten Knetchel
Hamish Sanderson


Peter Amann
www.incentre.net/pamann/
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