[MCR] Rockies Ice, 2 O'Clock falls and Guinness. March 14/15th.

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Walked in towards Murchison Falls early saturday morning. Windy, 7 celsius and raining lightly at 7:30 am at the car. We started up the approach but it looked like it might even rain harder eventually, so we bailed. Our main concern was rockfall triggered by the rain after a warm night.

Moved to 2 O’Clock falls and that was a different world. Dry walk in, really plastic ice, no hanging daggers and that day it looked about as safe as ice climbing could be on a REALLY warm day. Think about that one:)

Climbed Guinness today. 0 celsius and clear skies at 7:30am  Clouds came in soon after and the temperatures stayed around 0c to 2c all morning. Ice was fantastic plastic and there is not much hanging ice. However, for those first few classic Guinness gully pitches it is pretty darn wet and relatively snowfree in the trees and on the ice. If going back, I would be concerned about rockfall if it kept being warm or was raining. We walked off just above the 5th pitch. Looking up towards High Test it is a more snowy world but I couldn’t see any new snow on the highest trees or in the distance either. Still enough snow up there to be another good reason not to go there if it is really warm or raining.

Guinness descent gully is kinda terrible. We did it today and certainly wouldn’t do it tomorrow. Damn.

Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide