[MCR] Ice Conditions in Lac Des Arc

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Hi Everyone,

Climbed Irish Mist with Erica Roles today.  We approached by taking a look
at the Waterhole (climber's right of Irish Mist - 1st photo) and it was
super thin ice overlaid on baby bum smooth limestone so no chance of rock
gear to protect.

Irish Mist (second photo) was in good shape, but in thin early season
shape.  Take an assortment of stubby ice screws and swing lightly.  The
first 10 meters is quite easy but very thin with a bolt 4-5 meters up to
protect.  We belayed on a ledge (10 meters up) with another single bolt and
a good 0.3 Camelot for an anchor and then did the second 30 meter pitch to
a bolted station on the climber's right.  The bolts we used were placed for
a mixed climb to the right of Irish Mist that shares the start.

Just wanted to give a head's up that is was in; as it is difficult to see
if the very bottom of the route is in from the road.  It has ZERO avalanche
hazard.  A good option in the coming days given the incoming storm later
today and the likely high hazard that will prevail for a number of days
afterward.

Take Care,

Paddy Jerome
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
(C) 403 609 0795
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