[MCR] Mt Stanley, Rockies - October 28, 2015

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

A visitor safety team climbed the Y-Couloir on Mt Stanley yesterday,
descending the NW ridge to the scree bowls above the Stanley Headwall
before contouring below the Stanley Glacier to get back to the trail.

We found 10-15cm of fresh snow above 2700m with light wind transport
forming isolated soft slabs and producing some sluffing. We saw one natural
size 1.5 avalanche on the cone below the Y-Couloir, and we triggered a size
1 on the edge of the Kahl face while descending the NW ridge. The bulk of
the debris poured into an open crevasse and was big enough to take a
climber with it. Not a lot of mass, but it is worth considering the
avalanche hazard if you are climbing in narrow gullies or above terrain
traps. We carried avalanche gear on the climb and it seemed appropriate to
have.

Glacier travel was fast and easy with minimal boot penetration. The descent
requires a fair bit of route finding, and care was required due to a thin
covering of snow over the rock making things very slippery.

No climbable waterfall ice was observed, however "A Gentlemen's Day Out"
and "An Elderlyman's Day Out" which are located above the Stanley Glacier
to the left of the Y-Couloir looked good.

The attached avalanche awareness poster is part of a seasonal reminder put
out by various agencies in the area each fall.

Conrad Janzen & Steve Holeczi
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guides
Banff, Yoho & Kootenay Visitor Safety
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