[MCR] climbing and skiing
Public Mountain Conditions Report
mcr at informalex.org
Sat Mar 7 08:27:52 EST 2009
March 3 we climbed Twisted in Field. The direct start looks thin,
melted out, and detached enough to give a miss. Right hand ramp is
great. The 2nd, crux, pitch has some detachment in the first third of
the pitch, then some spooky detachment in the last third of the pitch
(the crux). Might be possible to move around right to more bonded ice
there. The last pitch is huge.
March 4 we climbed Murchison Falls. Good track in, lots of ice lenses
and crusts overlying the ice. Huge roofs of ice topping the climb,
kind of similar to what usually sits on top of Wicked Wanda but on a
larger scale. I've done the route over a dozen times since the early
80s and can't recall seeing roofs like this before. We got through by
traversing in from climber's right to finish in the centre and on
the left.
March 5 walked all the way up to Spray River Falls but substantial
sloughs coming off of the rock walls spooked us and we scampered away
to Tokkum Creek.
March 6, ski touring on the Observation Peak side of Bow Summit.
Broke through to the facettes and ground occasionally while track
setting up through the forest (that is getting old for early March!).
Sun crust in the glades, lots of wind effect above tree line. A
variable ski down hill, much better ski quality below tree line.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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