[MCR] Nemesis

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed Nemesis yesterday. The firmest approach trail has been set in  
an inappropriate place. This trail cuts to climber's right -West-  
through the valley bottom timber to below Suffer Machine then  
traverse large avalanche prone slopes to the base of Nemesis. A case  
of someone setting a track on snowshoes and then everybody else  
following, at least one party on bootsoles (do yourself a favor and  
rent snowshoes). A better approach would follow ski tracks up the  
climber's left -East- side of the valley. Perhaps future parties,  
especially those on skis, could approach there.

The route is in standard Nemesis shape, not as hard as it gets, nor  
as easy. We climbed the route in one 73 meter pitch (my second had to  
climb up on the ice for 3 meters so I could get to the bolts having  
placed all my 16 screws on lead), and a second pitch of 65 meters.

Gusty moderate to strong winds all day and we could here the  
westerlies revving up on the ridgelines. Lots of faceted snow being  
redistributed by the wind.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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