[MCR] Louise Falls

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed Louise Falls yesterday, April 22nd. It is huge and was in  
spring conditions. Melt/freeze 'corn' ice overlies the surface and I  
had to clear between 4 and 6 inches away to place screws and that was  
the most work on the climb -clearing away the corn ice to get screws.  
On the low angled ice I was cautious with my crampons shearing  
through the corn and I kicked steps, on the steeper stuff I was  
concerned with my tools rippiing out and got them deepish. Face shots  
with every placement (the corn ice tends to spray more than cold  
ice). I suspect that the route is locked up now (6am, April 23rd) as  
it is -7 C  in Canmore as I type this, and that the corn ice will be  
dinnerplating until it thaws.

The walk off is icy, we did 1 30m rappel off of tree on the walk off  
to avoid most of the frontpointing down.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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