[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias, June 4 2009.

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Thu Jun 4 21:10:00 EDT 2009


ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS JUNE 4, 2009.



Fair weather continues to promote receding of the winter snow line. Wet
slab and loose snow avalanches as well as cornice failures continue to
occur. Upper elevation north aspects still retain a winter snowpack with
concerns for midpack and deep instabilities. Overnight radiation freezes
are critical. As we approach the solstice, it is important to remember how
early and late the sun will affect snow slopes. A number of alpine rock
routes are coming into shape but approaches and descents will require
negotiating some snow slopes. A significant change in weather is forecasted
for the Rockies over the weekend with precipitation and snow possible down
to valley bottoms. It sounds hard to believe sitting on the deck in this
summer weather.



In the Rockies south of the Columbia Icefields and east of the main ranges
conditions have improved. Routes such as Castle Tower and routes on the
lower tier of Castle are getting climbed. The upper tier of Castle is
likely also in reasonable shape but it will be a snow wallow getting to the
descent gully. The Gmoser and Kain routes on Mt. Louis are probably getting
close. Again, the descent gully will likely still have snow and ice in it.
Lower elevation Front Range routes in Jasper such as Bedson Ridge are in
good shape but at last report the higher objectives were still snowy. Along
the Continental Divide it will still take a while. All of the high
objectives from Edith Cavell to Assiniboine are very much in winter
conditions although steep snow slopes are starting to show ice. Lower peaks
such as Grassi Ridge are climbable but will require negotiating some snow.
At the Columbia Icefields, reports indicate varying conditions but with
early starts and finishes, the north face routes and the AA route on
Athabasca appear to be in good shape.



In the interior ranges, the deeper winter snowpack still prevails. In the
Bugaboos, the snowline is still well below the Kain Hut (see Gord Irwin's
photos taken yesterday). There are no recent reports from Roger's pass but
it is likely that routes in the Sir Donald and Hermit area are still a ways
off. The timing for the routes on Mt. McDonald might be right if there is
enough snow to deal with the alder bash and yet be manageable from a
stability perspective. I also noticed some serious moats forming there when
driving by a week ago.



We are turning the corner on a late spring. Stay tuned on reports from ACMG
guides working in the various ranges.



Marc Ledwidge

ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide







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