[MCR] Athabasca North Face

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Climbed the route yesterday with one guest.

A good overnight freeze (-4 @ 2 AM @ 2000 meters) gave us excellent travel conditions with zero boot pentetration all the way to the Silverhorn.  Once in the basin under the face (above 3000 meters) there was a bit more dry snow and we had boot top penetration.

Depending on where you choose to cross the bergschrund there are currently 2 rope lengths of snow climbing and 4 rope stretchers on ice to get to the mixed step.

As has been talked about before the mixed step is getting more difficult each year due to glacial recession.  Yesterday there was about 20 feet from the last ice screw until you reached the pitons in the corner, up dirty, loose rock.  Felt quite serious and definitely not 5.4!  See picture.   A pitch and a half above that on good ice brings you to the summit.  

We were on top at 930 and it was quite chilly so we choose to descend the Ramp.  This worked only because of the fact that the snow was still frozen.  There were old tracks coming down it and if it had been warmer (or in direct sun) we would have gone down the AA side.  Careful consideration of current conditions is required before you commit to this option.

There is a newly formed serac tower at the bottom end of the Ramp.  This looks ugly and you must walk underneath it to go up or down.  Caution here as the summer sets in - this has potential to be problematic.

Have fun out there!


Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide
E: MikeStuart at CanadianAlpineGuides.com

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