[MCR] Squamish - Banff traverse

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

OK, we didn't do this on skis or foot but a cool traverse all the  
same via Highways 99 and 1 in my '92 Mitsubishi Delica. Lots of time  
to admire the scenery as we slowly chugged up the steep passes.

On the Coast, the past few weeks have been very hot and dry. Any  
Squamish rock climb that is known to seep should be as dry as it is  
ever going to be so get to it! The Tantalus Range is still looking  
snowy but I suspect travel conditions could be good if you hit it on  
a cool morning. I bet glacier coverage is still pretty good too, so  
routes that are preferable in snowy conditions could be good to go.  
Ditto for the Duffy Lake peaks and we saw a track up the Anniversary  
Glacier. Beware the daytime warming though and get a real alpine  
start to get off steep slopes before the sun gets on them.

Rogers Pass was looking like it was coming into shape. Sir D is still  
holding some snow but it could be ready in a couple of weeks. The  
lower peaks are drying out decently and easier routes are probably  
climbable, with some snow patches. Peaks where snowy gullies help  
with approaches are probably something to think about, eg Macdonald.  
However, it all depends on how consolidated the snow is, it might  
still be postholing. Again, very early starts would be mandatory.

In the Rockies, it seems to me that the west side of the highway is  
looking a bit snowier than normal for this time of year and the east  
side is a bit drier. Castle for example looks like late June or early  
July up there (no snow on the summits and the normal snow patches on  
the Goat Plateau), while the Lake Louise/Moraine Lake peaks are still  
looking pretty plastered especially the north aspects.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com


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