[MCR] Ha Ling, Castle Mtn, and EEOR (Generosity)

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

Out touring some local rock over the last few days.

Generosity on EEOR is dry all the way (including the chimney crux).  
Kicked in a new path for the traverse out of the scree bowl on top  
yesterday, which was, as always, a bit slippery, loose and  
exhilaratingly exposed for a few metres. No snow of consequence  
remains at the top, and everything seemed pretty sticky up there as  
far as spontaneous rockfall from the bowl is concerned.

If you haven't done it, it is surprisingly well protected in the  
5.9/.10a cruxes, fairly sustained in the upper two-thirds and I'd  
recommend it for the rock quality and variety. However, it is quite a  
bit longer than shown on any of the topos I've seen. I'd put it at  
around 550m, not the stated 400m. On a side note, if you have to  
retreat, almost all of the 12-14 bolted belays need fresh rap slings.

On Brewer's Buttress on Castle over the weekend. The route is dry  
with no unavoidable snow on the approach. Still plenty of snow in the  
descent gully and lots of water running in the approach gully below  
the hut. The hut got a new stove and some deluxe thickness foamies  
since I was last there!

Up Ha Ling's NE Butt as well. Surprisingly little evidence of the  
massive rockfall that ran over the lower portion of the route a  
couple of weeks ago; however, some of the approach ledges on  
climber's left of the initial scrambly pitches seem more eroded and  
discontinuous than I remember. No particularly significant new death  
blocks or other loose rock hazards, at any rate. Overall, the route  
was in perfect shape except for a couple of avoidable water seeps in  
the upper corner pitches and some newly precarious blocks/holds  
there. Sisyphus also looked totally dry.

Carl Johnston
Rock Guide
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