[MCR] Bugaboos June 29

Public Mountain Conditions Report mcr at informalex.org
Tue Jun 30 12:56:48 EDT 2009


Just had my first trip of the season up to the Bugs and things are looking
good. It is definitely still a bit early but there is already lots to do.

Road
The road is in descent shape and ok for a small car with a bit of navigating
through ruts around KM 34. I was in a Toyota Matrix and had no problems.

Trail
The trail to the Kain hut is mostly snow free but there are a couple of
significant piles of avalanche debris and a few fallen trees to negotiate
along the way.

Travel Conditions
Generally, things seem a little ahead of usual. There is still lots of snow
above the hut but the moraines are melting out fast. Travel on the lower
elevation snow is good in the morning (with a good freeze) and becomes a bit
of a slog in the PM when things warm up. Up high (above ~2800m) you can
still expect up to knee deep foot penetration through a breakable crust but
this would only affect the last bit of glacier to the West Ridge of Pigeon
Spire. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is in good shape right now but there is
already lots of loose rock melted out on the sides.

Routes
Most of the regular stuff is climbable with a few snow patches remaining.
The low elevation routes in the Crescent area look dry as do many of the
routes on the west face of Snowpatch. There will inevitably be some wet
sections on most routes but they are shrinking by the day. The higher shady
routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo and the Becky-Chouinard will likely have
snow and ice in them for a little while yet.

Bears
There is a sow grizzly with two, one year old cubs hanging around Bugaboo
Creek these days but there was no recent evidence of their presence on the
trail.

South Howser Descent
A new descent has been established from the South Howser Tower that avoids
the cornice, loose rock and rope eating flakes of the existing descent. It
roughly follows the North Face-Ridge route towards the Central Howser. Stop
in at the hut to see a detailed topo.

Cheers,

Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA
Mountain Guide


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