[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary July 2, 2009

[Public Mountain Conditions Report]

ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS; July 2,
2009.

 

The past week of summer weather has dried off many routes with sun exposure
up to the 3000 metre level (10,000' for our American friends).  Above this
level you can expect to find significant snow and wintery conditions
especially at the Columbia Icefields.  Most reports indicate conditions
typical for early July although a few days ago there were still reports of
windslab concerns at the Columbia Icefields.

 

Elsewhere in the Rockies, strong overnight freezes have created excellent
conditions on steep snow routes.  With early starts and timing that allows
getting off steep snow before radiation breaks down stability, routes
requiring steep snow travel should be in good shape.  Keep in mind that
during the solstice, the sun will come around quickly.  The main and front
ranges are essentially dry although a flight by the top of Castle today
showed a lot of snow on the summit ridge over to the descent gully.  The
more committing routes such as the Temple North Face and East Ridge routes,
the Goodsirs, Hungabee or Edith Cavell will be a few weeks yet.  The popular
SE ridge of Victoria will be quite difficult on the Summit ridge with
cornices still present.

 

Reports from the Bugaboos indicate good early July conditions.  As long as
you are on sun exposed routes and not on the higher objectives such as the
NE ridge of Bugaboo or the Becky Chouinard, you should encounter only
minimal amounts of snow to negotiate.  The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is in good
condition but again, careful evaluation is required later in the day.
Significant rock fall events are common there.  There have been no reports
from Rogers Pass but it is likely that the normal route on Tupper is in
reasonable shape.  The Swiss Peaks are also probably manageable with some
snowy sections.  Sir Donald likely still has snow and wet sections on both
the classic route and the descent.

 

The weather still looks good into the weekend but all bets are off after
this.

 

Marc Ledwidge

ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide

 

 

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