From mcr at informalex.org Mon Jul 20 19:00:59 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 17:00:59 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt Athabasca July 19 Message-ID: The A/A col route on Mt Athabasca was in good condition today but getting thin and bony for the last 150m before gaining the col. The North Glacier ramp route was also in good shape for the decent with the bergshrund and big crevasses on the ramp still well bridged. Good travel conditions all around, zero foot penetration all day, last nights NW flow provided a solid freeze in the alpine. The North Face and the Silver Horne routes were seeing traffic. Cheers M Stewart, IFMGA. www.cirrusalpineguides.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Mon Jul 20 13:35:42 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:35:42 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Assiniboine Message-ID: Conditions relayed by Aaron Beardmore MG: Went to Assiniboine past 2 days. Climbed Strom and Sturdee in good conditions but did not attempt Assiniboine. Good freeze last night. There is significant snow from the red band and above. It looks like the route would be manageable for a strong fast party as long as snow conditions remained firm. The Gmoser highway was in good shape with a snow cone still present before gaining the ledges. Crampons were used for this. Stay tuned for more details later today. Marc Ledwidge UIAGM From mcr at informalex.org Mon Jul 20 23:32:49 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 21:32:49 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Temple conditions Message-ID: The Greenwood/Jones on Mt. Temple is in great shape. Only a few patches of snow left which do not affect the route, otherwise rock is dry where it needs to be. Summit ridge was easy walking, some big cornices still sitting over the black towers. The Normal route is dry, kept the crampons on for the first 200m of the descent but they are not crucial. Traveling as a group of 4 is now being enforced on the the Moraine Lake trails and Paradise Valley trails. Lilla Molnar Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Tue Jul 21 09:59:07 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:59:07 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Assiniboine Photos Message-ID: Photo's to follow up on yesterday's post on Assiniboine. The hot and sunny weather is helping, but it will be a couple of weeks before the mountain is in its normal shape, and mostly free of snow. Photos in order are: 1. Assiniboine 2. Peak and Gmoser Hwy 3. Ledge on Gmoser Hwy looking towards Hind Hut at top of snow cone 4. Mt. Sturdee 5. Gmoser Hwy: Looking back towards snow cone on descent (See attached file: IMG_0283.jpg) (See attached file: IMG_0289.jpg) (See attached file: IMG_0290.jpg) (See attached file: IMG_0307.jpg) (See attached file: IMG_0365.jpg) Aaron Beardmore Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0283.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78563 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0289.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72180 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0290.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 88815 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0307.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 44565 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0365.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 73855 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Tue Jul 21 19:50:49 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 17:50:49 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Victoria Message-ID: <5C510D9415BD4AB9BF71EBA7EAA96ECA@gizzf2qo> Climbed Mt. Victoria on July 20 via Fuhrmann Ledges and Abbott's Pass Hut and descending via Huber Ledges to Lake O'Hara. The snowpatch facilitating the climb to the Furhmann ledges from the Plain of Six Glaciers is dwindling fast and the melting will soon turn this part of the climb into it's usual "gravel grunt". Conditions on the south ridge of Mt. Vic were very good with the good refreeeze that we had, however the warm temps are softening the snowpack quickly during the morning!! The last 30 min of the ridge are quite sporty and require careful travel on the pointy-snow covered ridge - again: Not so great, when the snow if soft or even moist! Descent to Huber Ledges in great shape with good boot kicking and the glacier part is still fully snow covered. Cheers, Jorg Wilz Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA) OnTop ltd. www.ontopmountaineering.com 1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717 From mcr at informalex.org Tue Jul 21 20:16:37 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 18:16:37 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Victoria Message-ID: <965B2B926B10419B8582B7EEA93CB9E5@larry2e4f7cdf6> Went up to Abbott Pass monday night and climbed Victoria S ridge today. Good conditions all around. Abbott Pass trail much improved by recent traffic. Kudos to everyone who was pushing rocks off the trail. Victoria S ridge in good shape. Dry rock climbing (very little verglas) to top of 1st step. Crampons on from there all the way to the summit and down to Huber glacier toe. Summit ridge has some sporty snow climbing but very few cornices. Travel was excellent on the ridge but the east face got soft in a hurry. Huber descent is good but there is already about 40m of 45 degree bare ice in the lower descent gully. No fun in soft boots. Still snow patches spitting rocks above the Huber Ledges. Victoria traverse probably needs more radiation as the east face would be a scary place to be after 9am I am guessing. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Tue Jul 21 22:58:50 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:58:50 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Jasper area: Fryatt, Meisner's Ridge, Columbia Icefields Message-ID: <5A497E2F-B386-4727-80EB-16DF375AD753@alpinism.com> Another foray into Jasper Park this week. We went up Mt Fryatt by its West Ridge and down the SW Face on July 18 and climbed Meisner's Ridge July 20. The ridge on Fryatt is dry and in good shape. Contrary to some sources the rock quality is not very good on this route, in character the route has similarities to Mt Assiniboine although I think it is more sustained with many mid-fifth class steps. The SW Face still holds a fair bit of snow but it is melting fast. This would make for a relatively fast ascent with a freeze but if it warms up at all the slopes are steep enough to avalanche and produce rockfall. We had a little bit of both on our descent. Photo attached. On Meisner's Ridge the route is dry of course. Water available on descent. There is a wee bit of snow on the walk down, which is nice, and the scree is still mostly softish (we found the same on Fryatt) but drying out and hardening fast with these warm temps. The canyon is in good shape with about 300 m of semi-continous bouldering moves on solid waterworn stone. After these exertions, today we decided to just go for a little hike up Wilcox Pass to have a look at past triumphs. Photos of Athabasca, Andromeda and Kitchener attached. Mark Klassen Mountain Guide www.alpinism.com 45-42 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 1329 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1040600_2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 53466 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- P1040600.JPG -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 20 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 16 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 22 00:10:36 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:10:36 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Athabasca Message-ID: Climbed Athabasca today Tue July 21 in perfect solitude up the ramp and down the AA Col route. Overall very good conditions. Only 8 degrees at 4 AM at the parking lot but still a good refreeze on the glacier with the clear skies overnight. Someone had punched in a deep track in very soft conditions across what used to be "the ramp", which makes for relatively stress-free traversing underneath the Silverhorn in the morning while it's still cool. The top of the usual AA col descent has turned into gravel which provided some rock fall during our descent, even though it was relatively early (10AM) and the snow was still frozen bone hard......I don't think I would recommend it anymore for descending. Cheers, Jorg Wilz Mountain Guide (ACMG / UIAGM) OnTop ltd. www.ontopmountaineering.com 1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717 From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 22 18:09:33 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:09:33 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Odaray Message-ID: There was no freeze last night on the Odaray Glacier, but the boot penetration was only about 10cm, which made for reasonable walking. The glacier was some what broken, but can be passed more easily on the climbers right side. Getting from the glacier to the ridge was the crux of the day. The snow is pulling back further and further with the hot days. This makes for about 30m of undesirable, low angle, loose rock to the first piton anchor, where the rock quality gets much better. There are some snow patches between the anchor and the ridge but are easily walked around. The ridge itself is almost completely snow free and in good condition. Aaron Beardmore Mountain Guide From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 22 18:20:41 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:20:41 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt Robson - Kain Route Message-ID: <3e9f2e410907221520k606a2cf5jb4fe80f1107e0873@mail.gmail.com> Went in to the Kain Route on Robson the old fashioned way on Monday to a camp at about 2400m on the glacier. Coverage and travel on the glacier was good but it's melting fast with the heat. Firn line was at about 2100m but rising fast. We left camp at about 3am MST yesterday morning and got to the Dome via the Robson-Resplendent col ridge. Overnight temps were warm but clear, with a reasonably supportive radiation freeze crust. The Mousetrap looks doable, but the ridge added a bit of class and variety to the day and is straightforward and safe and isn't too far out of the way. The steep ice line left of the Mousetrap looks like it would go too right now, but maybe a bit sporty over the schrund. We started up the Kain Face at about 7:30am, by which point the crust was still holding things together, but it would have been preferable to have been there a couple of hours earlier as the schrund crossing was a bit sporty in the heat and the crust was breaking down quickly. I was able to scrape down to ice for the belays on the middle three pitches, about 70cm down under sloppy snow. The traverse and the Roof were in good shape with secure footing for the most part. We summitted around noon and descended in the typical thick mist of Robson's afternoon ballcap. If you are planning a trip there in the near future you will want to have a cold clear night and an early start. You might also consider bringing along bivi gear and a stove, as we did, to the top of the Kain Face so that you can wait in comfort until the cool and safety of morning for the descent -- in its present condition it's a dangerous place to be much past early morning. See attached for a variety of photos from the trip. Regards, Tom Wolfe AAG/ASG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonKainRoute.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 79429 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonMousetrap.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 94871 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonNFace.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 105086 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonRoof.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 57855 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonSFace.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83961 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonSummit_BarryBlanchard_Jerry.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 65732 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RobsonKainFace.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 71532 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 23 14:25:04 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:25:04 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Additional Athabasca info.. Message-ID: Just to add to Mark and Jorg's posts from earlier in the week.. Climbed the Silverhorne on Monday in perfect conditions. The bergshrund was easily passable and we could find ice screw anchors for every belay. Enjoy! Mike Stuart ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 23 14:26:11 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:26:11 -0700 Subject: [MCR] Hermit Meadows Message-ID: <00c201ca0bc3$0e01d5d0$2a058170$@net> Just finished a few spectacular days of climbing in the Hermit Meadows, at Rogers Pass. We climbed the Hermit Traverse, Swiss Peaks Traverse via the south ridge of Swiss Peak, and the Hermit Traverse via the SW/ SE Ridges. Conditions were nearly perfect with good overnight recoveries in the snow gullies with softening during the day, good snow coverage on the glaciers, and dry rock on the ridges. Made for fast and enjoyable travel! Crampons were necessary on two of the mornings. The 10-15cm of high elevation snow from a couple of weeks ago has essentially all sloughed off and the snowpack is beginning to feel quite a bit more settled on the solar aspects. Lower down the snow is melting quickly and coverage is changing rapidly. Several of the main snow gullies are beginning to melt out and will soon no longer connect with snow. Cornices and point release avalanches are still a concern during the heat of the day. We witnessed a significant chunk of cornice release from above the standard south gully decent on Mnt. Sifton. The cornice chunks and rocks traveled all the way to the glacier below, wiping out the footprints from a party that had descended the gully the day before! Aside from the forest fire smoke that crept it's way in to the Revelstoke area yesterday, conditions should be similar for several more days. Cheers, Paul Norrie ACMG Mountain Guide Revelstoke -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 23 18:24:48 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:24:48 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Hermit Group - Selkirk Mountains Message-ID: Spent the last few days in the Hermit Group near Roger's Pass. We climbed Tupper, Roger's, Grant and Fleming. We arrived in the area just as Paul Norrie and his crew were leaving (previous posting). Where that group found good recovery of the snow overnight, we had no freeze in the last several days. Foot penetration even at 5:30am was averaging ankle deep to mid shin. We experienced very warm days (and nights) and the smoke form the Kelowna area was not helping to drop the overnight temperatures. Creeks are running high and the remaining snow coverage is melting rapidly. Some rockfall and loose snow avalanches were noted as things really warmed up. On the positive side the rock routes are in great, dry condition. Play safe! Jeremy Mackenzie ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide _________________________________________________________________ Attention all humans. We are your photos. Free us. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9666047 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 23 19:44:23 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 17:44:23 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mts. July 23, 2009 Message-ID: <3e9f2e410907231644g5f6fe07ak666a4a1ee56c63b4@mail.gmail.com> We've been blessed with a string of long, hot, sunny days in the Rockies and Interior since the last MCR Summary. Overnight temperatures have typically not dipped below the freezing level high into the alpine, but until the last couple of nights good overnight recoveries in the snowpack and even frozen surface crusts have been reported due to radiation cooling from the clear starry nights. Over the past few days, however, limited reports have been of very warm nights with no recovery high into the alpine and a steadily worsening snowpack. As a result of our fine weather the climbing activity in the alpine has kicked into high gear. Alpine rock routes even on high north aspects (e.g. Greenwood/Jones on Temple's north face and Mt. Sir Donald's NE Ridge) are reported to be drying out and mostly good. Earlier in the week, glacier and snow and ice routes have also been climbed such as Athabasca's North Face and Silverhorn routes, Robson's Kain Route, Lefroy's West Face and Victoria's South Ridge. Climbing conditions have been reported as generally very good. Deep snowpack areas (e.g. 1m+) have provided good, supportive travel with minimal foot penetration. Earlier in the week, shallow snowpack areas, such as near firn lines or on steeper faces, provided good travel early in the morning on surface crusts; but it's easy to be lulled into a false sense of security by this. Daytime warming melts the thin crusts quickly and turns snow that at 4am provided good steps into slop by 8am. The hot weather of the past couple of days has made this concern that much more serious. Glaciers are still overall well covered but this is changing quickly as the snowline is receding and bridges are thinning out and softening in the heat. Rockfall is becoming an increasing concern as the snow that holds our rubbly ranges together is warming up and disappearing. The bigger peaks are starting to get climbed, but many routes are in marginal condition requiring good overnight refreezes, strong experienced teams who get up early and move quickly, and a willingness to bivi on descents to wait (hopefully) for the overnight recovery. Over the next couple of days a cooling trend with thunder storm activity is predicted. The 7 day weather forecast shows continued cooler temperatures with more good weather and winds from the northeast. This could mean a steady improvement in alpine climbing conditions if it brings overnight freezes to settle the snowpack into good summer condition. Over the past week we've had more than 15 MCR reports covering probably twice that number of mountains in many of the Interior ranges. These reports are a great source of up to the minute beta on conditions and a valuable resource to everyone (including me writing this!); thanks to the guides who put time and effort into writing them, keep up the good work! Regards, Tom Wolfe AAG/ASG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Fri Jul 24 11:46:30 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 09:46:30 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt Sir Douglas Message-ID: Back into Mt Sir Douglas near Burstall pass over the past few days. Clouds/smoke haze rolled in overnight Wed/Thurs and there was no re-freeze on the glacier. At 3:30am the temp was +12C at 8000' and it steadily warmed up after that. Rockfall was steady throughout the night as the snow receded and foot penetration at the base of the glacier was boot top to shin deep. The rockfall and the travel conditions made us decide to pull the pin early and retreat to the viscous clouds of mosquitoes closer to treeline. Another note, there was evidence of a previous size 2 avalanche that was likely caused by serac fall onto the glacier. The fracture line was close to 60-80cm deep with the glacier ice as a bed surface. This avalanche crossed the typical descent route burying it with snow and large chunks of ice. Its warm out there... Mike Koppang SG Kananaskis Country Public Safety This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sir Douglas.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60047 bytes Desc: Sir Douglas.jpg Url : From mcr at informalex.org Fri Jul 24 12:35:40 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 10:35:40 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Temple SW Ridge (scrambling route) and Moraine Lake area observations Message-ID: <91E808EA99FD4C87A7B9B2176CD4B4BF@gizzf2qo> Climbed Temple yesterday up and down the scrambling route. Temps of 5 degrees at 5 AM at the Moraine Lake Paking lot. Route is in dry shape and we didn?t use crampons. There is a small patch of snow left right below the crux, for which, when frozen in the morninig, an ice axe could be handy - it's only 10 meters wide at best but wiping out would have grave consequences. Given the current temps it'll be gone within a week's time. Notable was that the snow right on the summit (3500m !) did not carry already at 9.30 AM. I think all the haze in the air probably from the Kelowna fires and a thin overnight cloud cover prevented a thorough refereeze.....the snow underneath the crust is completely moist and soggy. A few other observations en route: The approach traverse to the Sentinel still has two large snowy patches which make bringing boots / ice axe worth-while. The Perren Route to the Neil Colgan hut looks snow free to the glacier The "Center Ice Bulge" on Mt. Fay's north face is bare ice for the upper half The 3.5 Couloir (the large couloir visible from Moraine Lake) has avalanched down to the ice at some point not too long ago and looks ugly (lots of indication of current rockfall). The fractureline is about 2/3 up. Cheers, Jorg Wilz Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA) OnTop ltd. www.ontopmountaineering.com 1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717 From mcr at informalex.org Fri Jul 24 18:10:10 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 16:10:10 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Robson and Silverhorn Message-ID: <82C36356-4400-4D1C-9B28-329EF714F442@telus.net> To add to Tom Wolfe's Robson Posting earlier this week: My client and I flew to the Dome on July 20th, immediately apparent to my eye was that the face looked to be in June conditions -a uniform shield of snow with no runneling visible. We kicked a track up to the face and checked out the bergschrund crossing (up track preserved on our descent). We walked away from our Dome camp at 03:45 BC time on the 21st. A strong overnight freeze and crust allowed us to ascend the face, but under the 10cm crust lay 70 cm to 1 meter plus of damp snow, I knew we'd be having challenges with the face on the descent once the crust broke down. The ascent to the summit and return to the top of the Kain Face as per Tom's posting. The firm surface had gone to isothermal wet oatmeal especially were the snow was shallow over ice. I rapped 30 meters down onto the Kain Face at 17:00 to check it out and it was sloppy and ripe. The little 1 cm surface slough that glided away from my feet matured to a roaring, wet cement, size 2 avalanche by the time it gushed over the bergshrund. We resigned ourselves to digging a snow cave and waiting until morning to descend, or seeing if the helicopter that was coming to pick us up the next morning could pick us up then. It could, and we flew from the top of the Kain Face at 18:30, packed up our camp and flew down to the road. The face looked dramatically different flying away, several more days of hot weather should see it in normal summer conditions -runnels of ice and ribs of snow. Climbed the Silverhorn Route on Mt Athabasca yesterday, July 23rd. A week overnight freeze on the glacier helped (3 mm crust?). Good travel on the glacier, the route was damp with water running to within 100 meters of the top of the Silverhorn. Descended via the AA col which is getting boney, and bonier. Little snow cover left below the upper basin. A party had been up the Hourglass Route on the 22nd. Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures barryb3 at telus.net 1 403 609 4615 cell 1 403 609 1321 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sun Jul 26 11:40:15 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 09:40:15 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt Ball,SE Ridge, Banff Park, 0724 Message-ID: Yesterday we climbed Mt Ball via the SE Ridge and snow slopes from Shadow Lake. This route is mostly 4th class, a few short sections of low 5th class, moderate angled snow climbing and a little glacier travel. The route is in good condition, worth doing and a much more pleasant way to the summit then the approaches from the #93 highway side. A big day with 10K of hiking to the base and 4800 vertical from Shadow Lake. Bike/hike to Shadow lake, just before the trail goes up to Ball Pass go north through trees to access the large east and south facing glaciated cirque on Mt Ball. Heading for the obvious col on the right scramble up to the base of the SE ridge. Climb the ridge, mostly 4th class on ok rock, the grey band and the black band's being the crux's, short lived low 5th class climbing. From top of ridge continue to summit via low angled summit glacier cap. Alterative route, from the base of the black band move around to the climbers left of the SE ridge and ascend a 35 degree snow slope and then a 35 degree snow couloir to the summit of the SE ridge. Continue to summit via low angled summit glacier cap. Decent - ether route can be reversed depending on conditions. Left hand sky line in photo is the SE Ridge. Cheers. Mark Stewart Cirrus Alpine Guides IFMGA/ACMG Guides www.cirrusalpineguides.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: JamieMtBall 0724 028.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 58354 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Sat Jul 25 23:50:08 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 21:50:08 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Bugaboos-Pigeon East Face July 25th, 2009. Message-ID: <8654A789F09548F1AC661598E0D8F0D3@larry2e4f7cdf6> Climbed the Cooper-Kor on the East Face of Pigeon today. Presently travel is good on the Bugaboo Glacier. Pigeon East Face is still weeping so we had some very entertaining summer waterfall climbing. Pigeon West Ridge is almost pure rock now. A little snow and a couple of icy steps on the North side getting to the last pitch is all that needs to be negotiated. Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is beginning to look less and less like a moderate ski run and is starting to show its true self. Lots of perched rocks on the Bugaboo side and the Schrunds are starting to yawn. Crevasses generally are starting to open up all over the Bugaboos and the bare ice is getting harder to avoid. Road is in pretty good shape. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide laristan at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sun Jul 26 10:10:47 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 07:10:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [MCR] Sir Donald Area, Selkirks, July 24-25, 2009 Message-ID: <355572.60875.qm@web112520.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Enjoyed two beautiful days of hot weather up in?the Sir Donald area of Rogers Pass!? We hiked in and did the traverse of Uto Peak on Friday and?climbed the NW ridge on Sir Donald Saturday.? Both routes are dry and in great shape.? Ice axes?were useful for the snow slopes ascending to the?Uto-Sir Donald?Col to avoid some scree.? We also used them for the final descent gully on?the NW ridge of?Uto and the West Face bypass?descent on Sir Donald.? The snow patch on the West Face bypass?is thinning quickly to the?ice below?and required some step?chopping and?rock anchors to make it work.? You might consider a set of crampons to make crossing it more friendly?in the next few days. Cheers, Conrad Janzen IFMGA Mountain Guide www.conradjanzenguiding.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sir Donald NW Ridge.JPG Type: image/pjpeg Size: 80718 bytes Desc: not available Url :