From mcr at informalex.org Mon Jul 27 21:54:42 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:54:42 -0600 Subject: [MCR] pics of Edith Cavell Message-ID: <20090728015444.1FC4A12B134@sparta.incentre.net> I have some friends in high places who just shot these pics here on July 24th. Though I haven't been there or heard of any reports I am guessing it is getting to be in good shape. Still a bit snowy in places but the back side shot labelled South face shows a view across the descent route of the west face showing it is drying off nicely. Peter Amann Peter Amann Mountain Guide www.incentre.net/pamann/ -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: july 24 flight 126.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 71746 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: East cavell climbing edge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 64871 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: july 24 flight 024.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72300 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: july 24 flight 025.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80970 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: july 24 flight 027.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 50705 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: july 24 flight 028.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 31853 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: july 24 flight 030.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60215 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Mon Jul 27 22:28:27 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 02:28:27 +0000 Subject: [MCR] Edith Cavel East Ridge Message-ID: Climbed Edith Cavel East Ridge today. It is in great shape, we didn?t have to put on crampons at all. We walked around the snow on the approach, another party crossed the snow and did use the crampons. A few snowy sections warranted cutting steps with the ice axe, but it was never more than a dozen steps before jumping back on the rock. Anchors along the way are tattered and worn so back them up. Conditions could change with the next thunderstorm so be prepared for anything. Conny Amelunxen ACMG/IFMGA _________________________________________________________________ Stay on top of things, check email from other accounts! http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9671355 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Tue Jul 28 17:36:45 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:36:45 -0700 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Begbie-Monashee Mountains July 25-26 Message-ID: <0c1201ca0fcb$81702ab0$026a010a@mail2world.com> Guided two guests up Mt. Begbie's N Ridge (Normal Route) on Sunday. Due to exposed ice, crampons are necessary at this point to ascend the glacier's toe. The snow covering the lower glacier is also rapidly diminishing exposing ice above the glaciers toe and making for weak snow bridges where there was less than 40cm of snow. Careful probing as well as keeping the rope tight were two techniques used to keep from immersing oneself in many of the water filled crevasses. Ascending from the glacier to the rock ledge currently presents little difficulty with the moat still full of snow, however this is changing rapidly and caution is needed to execute this maneuver safely. A couple of .25" to 1" cams will allow You to build an anchor above the moat. Contrary to local rumor the bolts on the traverse ledge are IN place and in good shape. Of note were the millions of biting insects at all times of the day and night at the campground and some distance into the alpine. Darek Glowacki ACMG Ski Guide/Assistant Alpine Guide Revelstoke Alpine Adventures Darek Glowacki ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide P.O. Box 699 REVELSTOKE BC CANADA V0E 2S0 ph# 250 837 5140(home) email Darek at mail2skier.com

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Unlimited Email Storage – POP3 – Calendar – SMS – Translator – Much More! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 29 08:01:19 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 06:01:19 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Fay Message-ID: <2C0AAED858CD442A80D7347FA5D166CB@DELL6400> Was up at the Neil Colgan hut over the weekend via the Perren route, and climbed the Center Ice Bulge on Fay and the NW ridge on Little. The bergschrunds are starting to becoming problematic for both the Ice Bulge, the Roth/Kallen (which was very dirty with rockfall) and the descent off of the West ridge. Make sure you study the places to cross while you are hiking to the base of the face. The route itself was 90% ice with good gear and anchors all of the way up. Both Mt. Little and the Perren approach were bone dry. Glacier travel was slow and becoming a bit sporty with no overnight recovery in the snowpack. Foot penetration was between boot top and waist in a few spots on the Fay glacier. Careful probing and keeping the rope tight were critical for safe travel. We had very unsettled weather with numerous squalls roll through and some mid morning and afternoon electrical activity. We needed to constantly look over our shoulder to keep an eye on what was coming our way.. Hafe fun! Mike Stuart ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 29 13:02:24 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 11:02:24 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Icefields Area Message-ID: Went hiking the previous two days in the Columbia Icefields area and noticed a lot of change in terms of ice / snow conditions since my trip to Mt. Athbasca last week. The glaciers and ice faces have turned to their usual mid - summer shape: Only the upper parts of the Athabasca North Glacier looks snow snow covered, Sliverhorn North Face looks largely icey now, the Skyladder on Andromeda looks out of condition with lots of bare rock between the ice and foreseeable rock fall hazard. Generally speaking, the weather on Monday and Tuesday was very unsettled with lots of rain showers, at times heavy... Cheers, Jorg Wilz Mountain Guide (ACMG / IVBV / IFMGA) OnTop ltd. www.ontopmountaineering.com 1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717 From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 29 13:24:36 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 11:24:36 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Sir Donald Message-ID: <3e9f2e410907291024o45260466v6bce9feb0a6cf0e3@mail.gmail.com> Went up the NW ridge of Sir Donald yesterday. Route was essentially snow-free and in excellent condition, a bit moist from the multiple severe thundershowers the evening and night previous. The morning was moody and threatening but it ended up being a beautiful day for climbing. Rappel route on the W face is dry. Snow patches below the mountain were firm and settled. Temps at the pass Monday afternoon were around 30C, Tues afternoon around 25C so things have cooled off slightly. Of note is the creek crossing to get to the lower bivi trail. It's a raging turbid torrent right now, and a better crossing is to continue up to the old bivi site, cross the creek there (flatter & easier), and contour across to the moraine where you'll pick up the trail to the lower bivi site easily. Regards, Tom Wolfe AAG/ASG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 29 18:14:31 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:14:31 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Assiniboine North Ridge Message-ID: Attempted North Ridge of Mt. Assiniboine last couple days, but didn't get too far because of threatening weather and electrical activities. The route is in great shape with little snow. Marco Delesalle ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: L1010229.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 306059 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Wed Jul 29 19:15:55 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:15:55 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [MCR] Lake O'Hara July 29th, 2009 Message-ID: <12411025.718331.1248909355595.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edmwes93> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 30 20:23:15 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 18:23:15 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Flight to Mt. Wilson Message-ID: (See attached file: Kaufman Peaks.JPG)(See attached file: Howse NE But.JPG) Marc Ledwidge Manager, Mountain Safety Programs Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks 220 Hawk Avenue Box 900, Banff, AB T1L 1K2 Ph: 403-762-1401 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Kaufman Peaks.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 268381 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Howse NE But.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 406909 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 30 20:24:21 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 18:24:21 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Flight to Mt. Wilson 2 Message-ID: (See attached file: Mt. Baker.JPG)(See attached file: M.t Balfour.JPG) Marc Ledwidge Manager, Mountain Safety Programs Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks 220 Hawk Avenue Box 900, Banff, AB T1L 1K2 Ph: 403-762-1401 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mt. Baker.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 374561 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: M.t Balfour.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 408187 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Thu Jul 30 20:25:10 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 18:25:10 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Flight to Mt. Wilson 3 Message-ID: (See attached file: Mt. Olive 2.JPG)(See attached file: Mt. Olive.JPG) Marc Ledwidge Manager, Mountain Safety Programs Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks 220 Hawk Avenue Box 900, Banff, AB T1L 1K2 Ph: 403-762-1401 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mt. Olive 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 293845 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mt. Olive.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 461195 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Fri Jul 31 00:03:41 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 22:03:41 -0600 Subject: [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary - July 29th, 2009 Message-ID: <14595A0849F54FEE8EB1E7041D339377@larry2e4f7cdf6> ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 29th, 2009. Big changes in the alpine in the past week. Sunshine, warm temperatures and some warm rainstorms have removed much of the snow from all elevations. Lots of bare ice everywhere and that melting trend is likely to continue for the foreseeable future given the weather forecasts. This is both good and bad news, depending upon your hit list. Pure alpine rock routes are generally in great shape. Watch for the lingering, melting snowpatchs that are spitting rocks and slush without much prompting from the sun or the rain. Many snow and ice routes are in poor shape, especially in gully lines, sun exposed and moderate elevation places. Rockfall and tedious climbing is what you would get from places like Mt. Lefroy right now. Don't even think of routes like the A Strain or Grand Central Couloir. My big concern is potentially HUGE rockfalls around ice faces that are melting and exposing rocks that haven't seen the light of day since last year or since the beginning of the last ice age. Glacier travel is really variable right now. Good freezes and travel some nights, multi day slush at other times. Crevasse bridges are getting thinner and obviously losing strength in the heat. It is a REALLY bad time for unroped glacier travel or even sloppy glacier travel techniques. Rivers and streams are running high right now. Even on the glaciers at times! It is high season in the alpine and there is a lot of great climbing to be had right now. The big classic ridges and buttresses from Victoria and Sir Donald to the Howsers and the Tonquin are crying out to be climbed. Just make sure your route plan takes into acount the glaciated approaches and descents and that you are very concious of what is over your head. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Fri Jul 31 10:47:41 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 08:47:41 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Edith Cavell update Message-ID: <208F1D0CB7E1417286EF3ECBC15DCCDE@DELL6400> To add to Conny's post from a few days ago we climbed the East Ridge over Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning, with a planned bivy in the saddle between the lower and upper ridge. There are about a dozen steps you need to take in the snow, spread throughout the upper ridge, but this can be easily done without crampons. The rest of the route is in great shape. This bivy spot is much better than the normal one at the base of the route with lots of snow from the cornice for water and no rodents to speak of. We descended the West Face route which is quick (3 hours) but the scree/talus bash is a bit of a grunt. If you choose to go down this way you should take runners, bug dope, bear spray and a bike for the ride back to the parking lot. Had to drive through Red Deer yesterday as a bad accident closed the Parkway 10km north of Bow Summit in both directions. You might want to check the road report for the latest update. Have fun! Mike Stuart ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Fri Jul 31 11:29:25 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:29:25 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Edith Cavell Message-ID: <3e9f2e410907310829g72a861c3i22e33d5bda3e7d31@mail.gmail.com> Climbed E ridge of Edith Cavell yesterday. Excellent conditions, did not use crampons or ice axe. The few snowpatches we stepped on on the route were soft but icy underneath. Warm temps, 11C at the parking lot at 3am, 7C at the bottom of the ridge later in the morning so no freeze whatsoever. Quiet up there -- one other party that must have started way earlier than us or biviied. We descended the same way. Rain showers began at about 4pm and continued until Canmore... Horrible traffic delays due to a bad accident north of Bow Summit meant we got home after midnight. Hopefully it's cleared up by now. Regards, Tom Wolfe AAG/ASG -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sat Aug 1 01:44:32 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 23:44:32 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Rogers Pass Horseshoe Message-ID: <526EBAD4-137F-446E-B076-21E530B4EAFC@alpinism.com> Spent the last six days in the Rogers Pass area doing a little traversing. Here's what we saw. July 26 - Abbot/Afton/Rampart/Dome to Sapphire Col Normal dry conditions. Scrappy getting to Dome col from the Lily side. 3L of white gas and a single ensolite at the hut. July 27 - Castor/Pollux/Leda to Asulkan Cabin Normal dry conditions on the Jupiter traverse. Snow almost all the way down from Asulkan Pass to the cabin. July 28 - Young's Pk NW Face, descend N Ridge/Illecillewaet Neve traverse/Terminal N Pk SW Face/Terminal SE Pk N Ridge/descend Terminal via Vaux Glacier to Sir Donald bivy site Young's NW Face has a strip of snow up the right side that was still there when I looked back at it today. Good travel on the Illecillewaet. Bergschrund easily crossed on Terminal SW Face. We just squeaked down the descender's right side of the Vaux Glacier on snow but by now I bet there will be a section of ice. Crevasses are opening all the way down the Vaux. July 29 - Sir Donald NW Ridge and West Face Bypass on descent Quite firm but kick-steppable snow on approach to the col, if you're in five-tennies it will be challenging. We were able to kick steps down the snow on the W Face bypass but this place will be changing daily. Crampons probably recommended until it melts away, which won't be long now. There was a major rockfall down the W Face about an hour after we crossed it. Witnesses from the trail below say it came right off the summit, was about 100m wide, raked the entire W Face including the bypass and ran a fair ways down into the talus and meadows below the mountain. July 30 - Uto SW Ridge descend NW Ridge/Sulzer Tower/Eagle Pk SE Ridge descend SW Ridge Normal dry conditions. July 31 - Avalanche SE Ridge descend SW Ridge Normal dry conditions. Ascent to the col is soft with recent rains but still unpleasant. Other notes Flowers are out in full force as are the bugs who have a hankering for your DNA Mark Klassen Mountain Guide www.alpinism.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sat Aug 1 10:53:01 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 07:53:01 -0700 Subject: [MCR] bugaboo-snowpatch col july 30 Message-ID: The conditions of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is rapidly changing. Its mostly ice under foot above the bergshrund. Most people are rappelling the route via 2 x 60m rappels on the climbers left side of the bergschrund. ?There is evidence of very large rocks rolling the length of the slope, especially on climbers right and the crevasses at the bottom of the slope are opening up and have weak snow bridges. The Pigeon Howser col is in great shape right now, with mostly snow under foot and good snow bridging on the schrund. This could change quickly with this good weather. jen -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 657 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1030050_2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 65828 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- jennifer olson jen at jenolson.ca -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: text/enriched Size: 93 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Sat Aug 1 12:39:41 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 10:39:41 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Aster lake area Photos, Kananaskis Country Message-ID: <> Ph <> ot <> os <> f <> rom a flight this morning around the Aster Lake area of Kananaskis Country. Of note the trail around Hidden lake lakeshore is useable now as the water levels in the lake have dropped. Mike Koppang SG Kananaskis Country Public Safety This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Robertson and Sir Douglas.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 44620 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Mt Marlbrough.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 46057 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Joffre North East Ridge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 49649 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Joffre North Face.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 35701 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: East Ridge of Sir Douglas.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 47491 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Sat Aug 1 16:18:24 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:18:24 -0600 Subject: [MCR] East Ridge of Mt Temple Message-ID: <648F2706-0F1E-4A6A-A31F-4984CE485AA0@telus.net> 11 people up the East Ridge of Mt Temple yesterday, July 31. With backups at the bottlenecks of the Big Step and the Exit Gullies made for a long day for everyone. The route is in very good condition, basically dry with only a couple of snow patches to kick steps into on the traverse to the Exit Gullies. Water available on the traverse for now. Several ice patches and veins in the gully that we took could be bridged around and dealt with without crampons, I did cut a couple of steps. Lots of danger from climbers dropping rocks on climbers below, especially in the Exit Gullies, we did some orchestrating of having people stop while others scampered away from below, or caught up, to reduce the risk. We didn't suffer anything serious, nevertheless its not a great route for multiple parties. Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures barryb3 at telus.net 1 403 609 4615 cell 1 403 609 1321 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sat Aug 1 20:35:25 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 18:35:25 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Cerise Creek - Mattier Message-ID: Just back from 3 days in the Cerise Creek area where we climbed Mt. Mattier yesterday. It has been so long since the last refreeze, that there are 2 obvious difficulties in the alpine right now. First is the continuing deterioration of the snow pack, which has snow cover at about mid September conditions of last year in this area. Big snowbridges that are melting away with lots of isothermal snow is the main problem, making travel a little trickier in certain places. The other major issue is the mosquitoes!!!! The bugs are pretty horrendous at almost all elevations, bring bug dope or be prepared to do battle with the clouds of mosquitoes until the next freeze up high. Evan Stevens Mountain Guide _________________________________________________________________ Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you. http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackToSchool_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: