From mcr at informalex.org Mon Sep 14 09:20:30 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 07:20:30 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Wapta Message-ID: <3D2016B7-A787-4389-BECD-390443484875@telus.net> Spent Sept 9-13 in the Bow and Peyto hut areas. Felt like winter when we arrived and summer when we left. The recent snows are melting uphill and more ice is being exposed with each day of incredible weather. We stepped into numerous crevasses given the new thin snow covering, lots of probing. Ascents of the Onion Skin, Mt Thompson, Mt Rhondda, Mt Habel (often referred to as Rhondda North), Son of Trapper, and Trapper Peak southeast summit were made, all in great condition. Happy trails, Barry Blanchard UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures barryb3 at telus.net 1 403 609 4615 cell 1 403 609 1321 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Mon Sep 14 16:58:25 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 13:58:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [MCR] Mt Tupper, Selkirks, September 13, 2009 Message-ID: <119361.33890.qm@web112509.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> We had a great day climbing the West Ridge of Mt Tupper yesterday in Rogers Pass.? The route is completely dry?as is the approach, and climbing in T-shirts was the order of the day! There is still snow on N aspects but with the?minimal freeze and warm temperatures things are slowly drying off.? Still some snow on the upper parts of Sir Donald NE Ridge, Uto's S ridge would be dry.? Snowline on the glaciers appears to be around 2400m but is only a few cm's thick in?most places. A great time to be out in the alpine! Cheers, Conrad Janzen IFMGA Mountain Guide www.conradjanzenguiding.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Mon Sep 14 19:53:39 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 17:53:39 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Ballista - East Face Tunnel Mtn Message-ID: Climbed Ballista on the east face of Tunnel Mountain today. If anyone is heading up there it would be great to take a wrench along and tighten the bolts through the A0 section on Pitch 7. Have fun, enjoy the sun! Jeremy Mackenzie ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide jeremymackenzie at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ New! Faster Messenger access on the new MSN homepage http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677406 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Tue Sep 15 22:28:19 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:28:19 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Victoria S ridge- dn Huber Message-ID: Climbed South Ridge of Victoria today and down Huber ledges. +5 with Moderate S winds at the hut 5 a.m. New snow has almost all melted off, Sickle crevaces easily outflanked to the skiers right over a still good bridge then down climbing made easier by softer ice. Huber descent devoid of snow, rappelled over the schrund on a v-thread skiers left of the rock fall debris from the upper gully. Small overhanging lip on the schrund and good bridge for stepping out to the glacier were no problem. Looks like a good bridge further climbers right has been used for ascents. Happy trails, Eric Dumerac IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide _________________________________________________________________ New! Faster Messenger access on the new MSN homepage http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9677406 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Wed Sep 16 19:30:16 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 17:30:16 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [MCR] Mt. Fay. Perren route and Central Ice Bulge Sept 16th. 2009 Message-ID: <25820568.791418.1253143816162.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edtnes91> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Wed Sep 16 18:38:58 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 16:38:58 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Lady MacDonald SE Ridge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Up Lady Mac this afternoon and the route is in good condition; however, the bolt gremlins seem to have been busy chopping and stripping since I was last up there. I didn't look too hard, but of the numerous new bolts I recall passing on the ridge last year, this time I spotted a grand total of 2 studs, neither with hangers. So, if you're going to bring a rope up there, I'd advise bringing extra gear and hangers, too. Carl Johnston ACMG Rock Guide From mcr at informalex.org Fri Sep 18 10:38:12 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:38:12 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary Issued Septemper17, 2009 Message-ID: ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains September 17, 2009 A stable high pressure system with record breaking warm days and cool clear nights dominated the Rockies and Columbias over the last week. The fresh snow from early September has mostly melted off and as of September 16th only high glaciated terrain and upper elevation north aspects were still holding the snow. All this changed today. The high pressure ridge started breaking down last night, and today (Sept. 17) the Rockies saw the arrival of rain showers and unsettled weather. Peaks along the Continental Divide got a dusting of new snow above 10,500 feet. No recent reports have come in from the Selkirks or Purcells, but unless you hear otherwise, I would expect a fresh dusting of snow on the higher peaks in these areas as well. The forecast for the weekend is calling for a westerly flow with cooler temperatures, mixed sun and cloud, and showers in some areas west of the Continental Divide. The alpine rock routes and ridges are mostly dry, but expect some snow on the rock at higher elevations. The alpine ice routes will have to be evaluated for rock fall potential, but the cool nights and bit of new snow sticking to the ice is starting to bring these routes back into shape. The key thing to keep in mind is that the weather is somewhat unsettled and, unlike the last week of perfect weather, there may be some afternoon build up and rain showers. Weak snow bridges on the glaciers are still a significant hazard. Many of the crevasses will be covered over (and hard to see) by a thin layer of new snow, but the bridging strength of this snow will be minimal. Lots of probing and conservative route choices are in order on the glaciers at this time of year. Brian Webster Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Fri Sep 18 12:34:05 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:34:05 -0600 Subject: [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains Message-ID: <3e9f2e410909180934p5fb51ec6tbf0235b165f9bb64@mail.gmail.com> A stable high pressure system with record breaking warm days and cool clear nights dominated the Rockies and Columbias over the last week. The fresh snow from early September has mostly melted off and as of September 16th only high glaciated terrain and upper elevation north aspects were still holding the snow. All this changed today. The high pressure ridge started breaking down last night, and today (Sept. 17) the Rockies saw the arrival of rain showers and unsettled weather. Peaks along the Continental Divide got a dusting of new snow above 10,500 feet. No recent reports have come in from the Selkirks or Purcells, but unless you hear otherwise, I would expect a fresh dusting of snow on the higher peaks in these areas as well. The forecast for the weekend is calling for a westerly flow with cooler temperatures, mixed sun and cloud, and showers in some areas west of the Continental Divide. The alpine rock routes and ridges are mostly dry, but expect some snow on the rock at higher elevations. The alpine ice routes will have to be evaluated for rock fall potential, but the cool nights and bit of new snow sticking to the ice is starting to bring these routes back into shape. The key thing to keep in mind is that the weather is somewhat unsettled and, unlike the last week of perfect weather, there may be some afternoon build up and rain showers. Weak snow bridges on the glaciers are still a significant hazard. Many of the crevasses will be covered over (and hard to see) by a thin layer of new snow, but the bridging strength of this snow will be minimal. Lots of probing and conservative route choices are in order on the glaciers at this time of year. Brian Webster Mountain Guide From mcr at informalex.org Fri Sep 18 22:28:11 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 19:28:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [MCR] East Ridge of Mt Temple, Sept 18, 2009 Message-ID: <509969.42608.qm@web112519.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> We had a?nice day out on the East Ridge of Mt Temple today.? It was cloudy for much of the day, then?sunny?in the afternoon.??Temperatures stayed fairly warm last night so there was no new snow on the rock and less than 1cm of new snow?on the glacier.? Some moist rock through the black towers due to the clouds around the peak but the route is generally dry throughout.? Our?biggest concern was previous?windblown snow covering crevasses on the glacier.? We did a fair bit of probing and belayed across a couple of suspect snow bridges along the way. The SW face trail is all dry, and the larches are turning yellow quickly which?made for a very scenic?hike down! ?Cheers, Conrad Janzen IFMGA Mountain Guide www.conradjanzenguiding.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sat Sep 19 22:33:59 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 20:33:59 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Rain on the Rockies divide Sept. 19th. Message-ID: <98F103C2C4BE4D5C971D5DDB619A8AF5@laptop> As of 18:30 today(saturday the 19th) at Lake O'Hara it had rained most of the afternoon to around 3400m. A very light dusting of snow was visible above 3200m but it was only on some ledges and definetly not widespread. O'Hara is as ice and snow free as I have ever seen it! Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sun Sep 20 23:22:43 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 21:22:43 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Jasper to PG Message-ID: <20090921032243.3912E12B0F8@sparta.incentre.net> Just doing a blast to PG and back. Sounds like there is significant snow to the south as people are asking about the north.... so here is a short run down of the north and west. Generally just a dusting below 2800 metres, much drying off on S and W aspects. A few peaks near Mcbride got more than a dusting, as well as some of the McGregors but most peaks are dry...(most peaks are less than 2300 metres) Even Mt Robson got a good dusting but not really significant..... Arriving in Jasper I noticed the eastern slopes were like Tekerra had just a light dusting up high. Peter Amann Peter Amann Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: robson and west.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 38891 bytes Desc: not available Url :