From mcr at informalex.org Thu Sep 24 20:45:48 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 18:45:48 -0600 Subject: [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains Message-ID: Despite a few short snow flurries up high, the recent record breaking warm temperatures and mostly dry weather, combined with a slightly cooler but dry forecast are granting us one last shot at alpine climbing before Autumn finally arrives early next week. Conditions are similar to last week with increased snow melt on the glaciers and significant rockfall still being the main issues in the alpine. The snow from early in the week will still be an issue on the higher north facing rock routes but there was not enough to create much avalanche hazard. Ice route are probably still not recommended and many glaciers have become very difficult to navigate but mid elevation alpine rock climbs are still in great shape and the setting is incredible with the Larches in their prime. It is a somewhat unique opportunity to be able to comfortably climb routes like the Grand Sentinel in the Moraine Lake area and the McTech Arete in the Bugaboos at this time of year. Routes like the NE Ridge of Bugaboo will have snow in the chimneys and the shady side of the NW Ridge of Sir Donald will be pretty slippery but routes on the south side of Louis and Castle could still be pretty good. Enjoy it while it lasts. -- Marc Pich? Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Fri Sep 25 04:59:01 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2009 02:59:01 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Mt. Robson/Kain Route Message-ID: Mt. Robson/Kain route Flew to the Dome on September 22 at 10 a.m.and out on the Sept 23rd with 1 guest. Mt. Robson is in the very best condition at present. We experienced sunny skies and clear nights. Lows of -6 and highs of 10 but it felt a little colder with wind chill. Moderate to strong wind gusts from the south persisted throughout. Crevasses and bergschrunds had good bridges though many slots remain masked by recent snow. Witnessed some rockfall and sloughing to size 1.5 from steep rocky solar aspects. On the higher reaches of the mountain?s south side there were occasional isolated 5-10cm melt freeze crusts that would pop off in small chunks but not propagate. The latest storm snow is 30-40cm deep in wind deposited areas. It has settled onto the Kain face as perfect ankle deep n?v?, making it for ideal step kicking. We ascended the Kain face from its right hand margin just left of the prominent ice bulge. I would estimate the Kain had 100 meters of good step kicking terrain at the top and bottom where I was able to use the tractor pull technique and three 60 meter pitches of excellent ice climbing in the middle section. The connector ridge snow was soft enough that I could kick in a good safe track with equally good footing either directly on the ridge or downhill of the wildly overhanging cornices that cap it. I was able to short rope most of it using running belays (snow picket and ridge features) for the narrowest exposed portions. The ?roof? or upper south face was in fine form. We took a line left of the SE ridge, then trended left towards the center of the face which gains the summit ridge via an excellent ice runnel. The roof was mostly pitched ice climbing with some longer short roping sections as well. Affording amazing views, the summit ridge was just fine although it was quite windy at the tip top of the Rockies! Of note is that I guided the route in a somewhat unconventional manner in that instead of the usual bivouac on the Dome, I opted for a high bivouac atop of the Kain face. I found that this really worked quite well and will probably do the same the next time. It really was not too much trouble bringing up a light mountaineering tent, sleeping bag, light stove/pot and food up the face. Excellent bivouac spots can be carved out- see pic. Total combined climbing time over the two days was 16 hours up and down. Descent was mostly on v-threads with snow pickets useful on the lower angled and deeper snow sections. Used 2 x 60M half-ropes, 8 screws, 2 snow pickets and lots of abalacov material. Happy Trails, Eric DumeracACMG/IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain GuideCanada: Canmore 403-609-1564France: Chamonix +33 6 78 15 45 23CAA Professional Member, Level II, CSIA ski instructor level IIPioneering alpinist, rock, ice, mixed climber, backcountry skier and certified mountaiun guide at your service _________________________________________________________________ Internet explorer 8 lets you browse the web faster. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655582 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Connecter Ridge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37602 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Ice Runnel.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37920 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Kain Face.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 65465 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Roof Ice.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33444 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Roof.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 36428 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sid at Connecter Ridge Bivi.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 50344 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sid on Summit Ridge.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 29345 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Sun Sep 27 20:40:37 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 18:40:37 -0600 Subject: [MCR] Ghost Road Message-ID: In the Ghost today. The condition of the road has vastly improved since a couple of months ago. There is some heavy equipment apparently doing some (re)construction work on the diversion berms, and so the Big Hill has been regraded and only has a few soft spots and is very easy going. They have also graded and compacted a new crossing from the bottom of the hill straight across to the top of the berm, so the gravel in the riverbed felt almost like hard top. I'm sure someone might (will!) prove me wrong, but I'd bet most passenger cars could fairly easily make it down the hill and over to the west side of the diversion right now. Get it while you can! Carl Johnston ACMG Rock Guide