From mcr at informalex.org Wed Nov 4 21:59:10 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 19:59:10 -0700 Subject: [MCR] Sorcerer, Ghost River, Alberta Message-ID: <8CBF01A2-7A2C-4F64-A608-6C9B1C971D7C@gmail.com> The Sorcerer is in good condition. Thick ice and good screws on both the upper pitches and the often-thin-and-hollow lower pitches. Of note: There was a significant pile (class 2) of old avalanche debris at the bottom of the route. Debris was mostly the consistency of a wet avalanche with some TV to beer fridge sized chunks in it. It appeared to be from a cornice collapse triggering the snow slope at half height-- likely during the warm spell last week. The halfway snow slope is now a combination of hard and soft snow-- not soft enough to slow any ice debris. There are also some sections of cornice remaining above the route, which may become a concern if it warms up again. There is a fair amount of ice lensing on the route, so some extra time was necessary for the placements and pro. Josh Briggs Asst. Guide From mcr at informalex.org Thu Nov 5 01:43:51 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 23:43:51 -0700 Subject: [MCR] Bow Falls Message-ID: <000001ca5de3$58ed0c50$0601a8c0@wilz> Searching for early season ice, we went to Bow Falls today. We climbed a couple of lines on the lower right hand apron, which had plenty to choose from in the WI 2 - 4 range up to two pitches. The regular Bow Falls line further left looks climbable but probably a bit tougher (WI 5ish?) than usual. Also Pointless Gully looked climbable with relatively little overhead avalanche hazard currently. The regular summer trail travels well and is for most part well tracked in. Only the Icefield Parkway sported some very icy sections. Cheers, Jorg Wilz Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA) OnTop ltd. www.ontopmountaineering.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: bowfalls1109.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 236530 bytes Desc: not available Url : From mcr at informalex.org Thu Nov 5 20:11:18 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 17:11:18 -0800 Subject: [MCR] Early Season Avalanche Conditions Message-ID: The Canadian Avalanche Centre is winding up for the season and information this time of year is sparse and difficult to get. If you've been out for a ski, climb, walk, drive or heard of stories from people who have, we'd love to hear about it. You can send information to: forecaster at avalanche.ca or call the forecasting office at 250-837-2141 ext. 230 We welcome any information no matter what your level of training or experience. Informal reports and stories are often just as helpful as technical data. The MCR summary later this evening will provide more detail and we'll be issuing an early season report for a number of regions tomorrow with a bit of a weather outlook for the weekend as well. Check out our bulletins at http://www.avalanche.ca/CAC_Bulletin_Regions There's been a number of close calls (skiing. boarding, and ice-climbing) already this fall so keep your head up out there. Karl Klassen Mountain Guide Revelstoke -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Thu Nov 5 20:51:48 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: 6 Nov 2009 01:51:48 -0000 Subject: [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 5th, 2009 Message-ID: <20091106015148.7270.qmail@udumti.pair.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sun Nov 8 12:47:15 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 10:47:15 -0700 Subject: [MCR] Bow Falls Message-ID: Yo! Just an update on Jorg's post from a few days back. Had a good day up on Bow Falls yesterday, despite some fairly nasty conditions. Temps were good within a degree or two of -5* all day. Winds aloft and in the surrounding area were reasonably calm all day, but we got a pretty good pummeling from the downdrafts (moderate to strong gusts all day) being sent down off the Wapta Icefields that sit right above the falls. Lot's and lot's of spindrift, my hood came off all day, and the gore-tex froze solid a few times. The ice isn't in the greatest shape right now, and it felt like it definitely slowed us down a bit on the way up. Lot's of aerated sections through the first pitch but still easy enough to get descent full length screws. Had to really clean to get a good anchor at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch, a line just right of the middle of the falls, was pretty delicate, with very thin sections of delaminated ice covered over with a thin skin or shell, the "good" ice underneath, being no more than about 10cm's thick. Lot's of delicate cleaning to get through it, and maybe one or two good screws on the pitch. On the top out on the right side I also ran into a small patch of hanging snow, that if starts to tighten up with a bit more wind would probably want to pop out of there, just a heads up. Topping out on the left hand side looked like it would be a better option if you could weave a line into it. The line we did would probably be solid WI4+. Lot's a folks out climbing the short single pitch stuff down and right of the falls too yesterday, looks like the place to be for early season ice cragging - looked like a lot of cool stuff to do, and like Jorg said probably plenty for the WI3 - 5 climbers, be a fun day out! That's it for now, guess it's game on - have fun and be safe! Ciao. Mike Trehearne ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide. m_trehearne at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mcr at informalex.org Sun Nov 8 20:47:24 2009 From: mcr at informalex.org (Public Mountain Conditions Report) Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 17:47:24 -0800 Subject: [MCR] Selkirk Mountains- Rogers Pass - Balu Pass Nov.8 2009 Message-ID: <19740413173256.49BAB2E023C1F4E8@edtnaa03.telusplanet.net> Well I finally recovered enough from the flu bug to wander up Connaught creek today with Greg Johnson. We aimed our early season sites on Balu Pass. Happy to say a couple from Revy made the early start and put a nice track in up the valley saving us old guys (well me anyway) from laboring up the drainage - they were breaking what looked to be 15-20cms in the valley bottom, that had accumulated over the older tracks - I am not sure if anyone was up there yesterday (Sat.) but there was definitely traffic on Friday. The temps were cool with light winds and snow showers off and on all day. Once you broke out of the trees, the total depth of snow down low looked to be around 50cms and was composed of 20-30cms recent storm snow over a strong rain crust. We did notice one reasonably recent small dry avalanche that had run fast and far (to valley bottom) off the steep North facing slopes of Cheops - it looked to be a result of wind loading at the high ridge crests (things looked windier in the high alpine that what we experienced during the day) At the Base of the headwall just below Balu Pass we took a minute to check out the bonding of the recent storm snow to the aforementioned crust which was now down 60-100cms from the surface. Compression tests yielded hard results just above the crust with a clean shear but it didn't seem to want to leap off the crust for sure - hand shears nearby also produced a clean shear on the crust but my impression was that it was stuck reasonably well - though I was not keen to test my theory on some steep convex roll! We continued above the Pass (elevation 2070m.) and up the ridge that ascends North, towards 8812 Pk., and noticed that the crust had disappeared - so from this limited observation (and Greg's conversation with the local Avalanche forecasters) it appears that the crust peters out around 2000m and is likely not an issue above that elevation. The snowpack felt well settled adding some confidence that we would not sink into the rocks if we stayed away from scoured ridges - the ski quality was actually quite good - okay it was great and everyone out there was having fun (we saw the aforementioned couple and another group of 3). Keep in mind of course that all those rocks that were visible not to long ago are now just buried - we stuck to lower angled terrain not so much as to limit avalanche risk as to keep from having to edge to hard and dig into something close to the surface. It felt great to get out for a walk in the mountains - but I definitely still feel as though I need a bit more time and info to gain some confidence in the snowpack - though I have to say it appears to be off to a good start. Remember if all else fails - LEAN BACK, Cheers, Scott Davis ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Balu Pass Headwall Nov8-2009.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 18557 bytes Desc: not available Url :