[Woodcarver] Tool angle.

[Ivan Whillock Studio]

>
> That is an excellent point about stronger tool angles for harder woods. I
> expect, you working on hard birch, that your tools have a very strong
angle.
> My chisels are typically sharpened at 28-degrees for most of what I
do(black
> walnut). I think new tools are about 15 to 20-degrees.
>
> Joe Dillett

Yes, and many carvers  keep the shallow bottom angle--so they can  "plane"
with the tool rather than "dig" with it-- instead, they put a slight inside
bevel on the tool to effectively make it steeper.    A good, tough tool will
hold up very well even in hard wood if it is used to its strength, pushed
straight ahead, rather than used to its weakness--pried with.

A properly sharpened tool is easier to use properly.  A blunt tool creates a
digging angle which results in a digging action.  Ironically, you need a
blunt angle because you dig and you dig because you have a blunt angle on
the tool.

That said, ironwood is hard on any tool edge.  But, even though ironwood
will dull the tool quickly, a good tool should not snap off unless the
carver uses a prying action.  I've used my wood carving tools on ironwood
and even soapstone, and though I needed to resharpen them often, it did not
ruin them.  Resharpening the tool regularly was just part of the process.
On the other hand, I can go weeks and even months without resharpening my
tools when I am using the standard hardwoods.

(I'm reminded of the old saw, "How often do you have to sharpen your carving
tools?"  Answer, "If I use them myself I can go weeks without having to
resharpen them.  If I lend one out, I'll have to sharpen it as soon as I get
it back.")

Ivan Whillock Studio
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