[Woodcarver] Shaped edge without a router

[Joe Dillett]

Hi John G. and Vic,

Scraping could work, especially if you can burnish the scraper for a sharp
enough edge to get a crisp cut across the end grain. If you are working a
hard wood the end grain will scrape much better than a soft wood. Also
wetting it a little may reduce the amount of endgrain breakdown. As Vic
says, do the end grain first.

I find cheap putty knives make good scrapers.

Now back to the original question. Being that we are woodcarvers, why
wouldn't you want to carve the decorative edge? A good sharp chisle should
make quick work of the job.

Joe Dillett
The Carving Shop
645 E. LaSalle St. Suite 3
Somonauk, IL. 60552
(815) 498-9290 phone
(815) 498-9249 fax
http://www.thecarvingshop.com
jdillett at thecarvingshop.com
http://www.carvingmagazine.com Carving Magazine web site and Readers Forum
**************************************************

----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Hamburger" <VHamburg at bellatlantic.net>
To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2004 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Shaped edge without a router


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> John G wrote:
>
> > Here is a crazy question. I would like to put a decorative edge on flat
stock, like what you would get by using a router. The boards are only 1/4
inch thick and about 3 to 4 inches square. I don't want to use my router for
such a small piece of wood. Has anyone done this by hand or have any idea
how I can do this?
>
> John,
>
> You are smart NOT to try using a router for this thickness of wood, the
> possibility of injury goes up as the size of the piece diminishes.
>
> Do what many of the old cabinetmakers did for custom work, use a scraper.
Take
> an old hacksaw blade, cut the 2-3" in length, and file/grind the edge to a
> profile that you want for the board. (mirror image of course!)  Carefully
file
> the cutting edge smooth, and then take a piece of wood and cut a slot in
it just
> wide enough to hold the blade but longer.  Drop the blade into the deep
end and
> in the open end of the slot for the blade, drill a hole to drop in a bolt
and
> wingnut to hold the blade tightly in place.  Expose only enough blade to
do the
> scraping.  Then using smooth strokes, you should be able to scrape the
edge to
> the profile that you want.  A final sanding, and it should be fine.  Like
a
> router, do the end grain first, then the long grain.
>
> If this isn't a clear explaination, i will try to clarify it, just let me
know!
> Thanks.
>
> Vic H
>
>
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