[Woodcarver] Question about diamond powder
Phill Pittman
phill at masterwerkes.com
Sun Jun 20 11:58:25 EDT 2004
One more opinion;
Sharpening techniques are a lot like fishing lures, whatever makes sense and
works for you is probably what you are going to have the most success with.
I have used almost every home remedy listed and they all work when properly
used. ( And too many expensive commercial ones to admit to)
I have used the diamond powder ( and many other abrasives) with the
cardboard and that was my method of choice until the mid eighties)
I did a major commission for a race car driver/owner and came into contact
with his maintenance and tech guys. I did not even dream that sandpaper was
made all the way down to a 30,000 grit. They used it for the final sanding
on the bodies to get as slick a finish as possible without adding the drag
of wax in the air.
Most automotive paint houses will carry it in stock down to 6,000 grit. That
is about the equivalent of the surface on common newsprint. With a little
moisture ( water normally) added to wash the particles out a sheet of that
was laid on a flat smooth surface of any description will work miracles. I
made a small box out of Corian drop off that houses a good selection, of
very coarse for re-shaping, down to superfine for final honing. I formed a
few profiles for wrapping the paper around for interior profiles when
required. ( unless it is an in-cannel gouge I never touch the interior of a
gouge. I true it when it is new and forget it)
I add a semi permanent lubricant to the sandpaper before adding it to the
box inventory. It keeps the sandpaper clean and serves the same purpose when
you use it on sanding belts in your shop. The stuff I put on now is called
"Coolit" ( http://www.coolitlube.com/ ) I am sure there are several
similar products that will work equally well. I work the same dry stick lube
onto the cutting surfaces and shoulders of my gouges when doing heavy work.
Just be careful not to introduce anything with silicon into your work that
is going to get final finish. It will create major nightmares if you leave
any on your wood surface.
Just my thoughts to add to the stew. I really enjoy hearing everyone's
preferences. There sure are a lot of ways to skin a cat, but either way I
guess he's skinned when it's done.
Good carvin, Phill
Phill Pittman
digicarve at verizon.net
www.masterwerkes.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Bisso" <albisso at bresnan.net>
To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2004 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Question about diamond powder
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>
> Wow - what a variety of answers on this one! I think I will add to the
> confusion.
> At one time I did lalpidary work involving poishing stones with super fine
> diamond grit. The product recommended for use with diamond compound in
> sanding and polishing gemstones was called GEM LUBE Silicone Extender
Fluid.
> It comes in a pressurized spray can and is available from lapidary supply
> stores (more recently I have seen other spray silicone lubricants in
stores
> and that might work - and cost less). Some other words on the can are:
> Lubricates, Cools, Moistens
> Use Gem-Lube on Resin bond diamond wheels, masonite spools, maple spools,
> phenolic laps, etc.
> The can I have is made by DIAMOND PACIFIC TOOL CORPORATION, 25647 W. Main
> Street, Barstow, Calif. 92311. A search on the net would probably find
> lots of suppliers of this or similar products made for the same purpose.
> Alex Bisso
> Billings, MT
>
>
>
> > > Hey listers....I have 3000 grit diamond powder that I want to use on
my
> > strop and or cardboard (ala Ellenwood Arts) for honing. Can anyone tell
> me
> > if there is a household medium that can be used to make a past of the
> > diamond powder that isn't expensive?
> > >
> > > Steve
> > > The land of the dimpled chad
> > >
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