[Woodcarver] marbling a wooden carved plinth

[Bill Smith]

would lov to see what this effect looks like if u have
a pic of it would u please sent it to me

Bill
--- Classic Carving Patterns
<irish at carvingpatterns.com> wrote:

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> > Good Morning Marcia,
>  
> I haven't  tried marbleizing with wood carving but
> we use to do a
> technique for ceramics years ago.
>  
> Working in acrylics we would base coat the work
> first with a pale gray
> tone over everything.  Then using a wool sponge (one
> of those with the
> great big holes that are just great for the bath
> tub) we would thin some
> medium gray acrylic, pat lightly on a cloth to
> remove the excess
> moisture, then tap the piece in a random pattern. 
> These two steps gave
> a mottled type of background.  Let dry very well.
>  
> The marbleizing fun came next.  Get a large bucket,
> big enough to dunk
> your piece.  Now make several thinned mixtures of
> turpentine and oil
> color in varying shades of blue gray, brown gray,
> and off white.  Keep
> the oil mixtures close to each other in tonal value
> and color. A hint of
> color change and value change works better than a
> dramatic color change.
> So when you can just see that the gray has turned
> blue or just turned
> brown is better than 'it's Brown or it's Blue'
> changes.  A good test for
> the thinning process with the turp is that it is
> just right when you can
> start to read the newspaper writing through a small
> drop or puddle of
> color.
>  
> Fill the bucket with cold water and add about a
> tablespoon of thinned
> oil color to it.  The oil color will float on top of
> the water in a
> puddle.  Use a spoon handle to swish the oil once
> then slowly dunk your
> piece.  You don't want the entire water surface
> coated ... you want it
> to look like the filling in a brown sugar cinnamon
> bun.  As the ceramics
> went down into the water it picked up the oil
> mixture in a very random
> swirling motion.  We would let that 'sort of dry',
> which usually meant
> it had stopped dripping but still had some shine to
> the oil color.
> While it dries clean your bucket and get ready to
> dip again with a new
> color.  You can use as many oil colors as you want,
> but three usually
> was a good number.
>  
> With ceramics there is a hole in the bottom of the
> piece where the mold
> opening was, which was great for holding on to
> during the dipping
> process.  With a wood carving you might want to add
> a eye hook to the
> bottom both for holding and for hanging while it
> drips.
>  
> Once you have several swirled oil colors added and
> the piece has again
> 'sort of dried' use an old toothbrush and add just a
> few splatters of
> whatever oil mixture you have left over.  When you
> are done you will
> have a varied background of shades of gray with pale
> and changing swirls
> of oil gray tones, then a few spots-splatters of
> more solid oil color.
> Plus as you start with the piece entirely coated
> with acrylics and you
> are only dipping the work not soaking the work, the
> wood shouldn't get
> excessively wet in the process.
>  
> This is fun to do, but PLEASE practice it first on
> something you don't
> mind ruining as it does take a little practice to
> get the oil to swirl
> just right.
>  
> Hope this helps.
>  
> Susan
>  
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net
> [mailto:woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net] On
> Behalf Of maricha
> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2004 4:16 AM
> To: [Woodcarver]
> Subject: [Woodcarver] marbling a wooden carved
> plinth
> 
> 
> hi folks,
> am experimenting with different effects on bases and
> plinths for my
> work... have been able to ebonize quite well, bronze
> effect quite no
> problem, but am having difficulty with the
> marblelizing effect? if any
> one has any suggestions, your help would be much
> appreciated./   thanks
> in advance.
> cheers
> maricha
> http://www.oldjoe.org/MarichOxley/html
> 
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