[Woodcarver] How to carve a deep , long , narrow , winding groove
Joe Dillett
jdillett at thecarvingshop.com
Tue Dec 13 11:55:29 EST 2005
Hi Robert,
I just tried it and it works. I used my Roto-zip with a 1/8-inch diameter
Standard Point Drywall bit designed for easy control. I cut a 1/8-inch wide
(3.18 mm) to 1/4-inch (6.25 mm) depth in 4 passes in cherry. There was no
chatter and very easy to control. I tried it at full speed 30K RPM with just
a little burning. I tried it with a speed reducer, reducing the speed to
about half, with no burning.
The Roto-zip is not the type of motor designed for speed reduction however
I've been using a speed reducer on mine for years. I will say that it is not
recommended and could shorten the life of your Roto-zip. The speed reducer I
use is cheap. It a Router Speed Control 110V/15Amp for universal (AC/DC),
series DC, motors (15 Amps max).
These dry wall bits are high speed steel, not carbide, so you'll be using a
few to cut all those grooves.
Joe Dillett
The Carving Shop
645 E. LaSalle St. Suite 3
Somonauk, IL. 60552
(815) 498-9290 phone
(815) 498-9249 fax
http://www.thecarvingshop.com
jdillett at thecarvingshop.com
http://www.carvingmagazine.com Carving Magazine web site and Readers Forum
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**************************************************
----- Original Message -----
From: <RbrtHillier at aol.com>
To: <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 6:50 PM
Subject: [Woodcarver] How to carve a deep , long , narrow , winding groove
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> I'd be grateful for advice on this : I want to carve into the outside of a
> turned wooden bowl ( say 300mm or twelve inches in diameter ) the pattern
> of a
> jigsaw puzzle . The figuring of the wood will then be the jigsaw's pattern
> .
> In between the "pieces" of the jigsaw will be the deep , long , narrow ,
> winding groove that I''ll carve . I'll then fill the groove with a
> coloured resin
> . The groove must not penetrate through to the bowl's inner surface , so I
> can't use a saw . I want the groove to be narrow , say 3mm or an eighth of
> an
> inch maximum . Depth of groove about 5mm or two tenths of an inch . The
> "pieces"
> of the jigsaw will be about 25 by 40 mm or one by one and half inches in
> size
> , so the groove between the pieces will be quite wiggly in order to form
> the
> classic knobs and sockets of the "pieces" .
>
> Now for some questions - am I right in thinking that the only way to carve
> this groove is using a router ? I don't think that hand tools could do
> this .
>
> I've tried it with a full-size router - the problem is in shifting the
> heavy beast around with enough precision so that I can do the fine
> detail of the
> wiggly knobs and sockets .
>
> I've also tried it with a Dremel - here the problem is that the router is
> so
> light that ( with the bits I've tried ) it tends to get dragged
> off-course
> and the groove has lots of little wobbles in it or places where the groove
> has suddenly widened . Keeping the tool at right angles to the surface
> ( this
> is needed - it's all part of a cunning plan :>) which I'll unveil when I
> get
> it to work ) is also difficult for me . Removing the wood in one pass
> along
> this ( relatively ) deep and narrow groove seems like too much of a
> challenge
> for Dremel bits , and the tool itself . It's hard enough to guide the bit
> in one
> pass that I recoil at the thought of having to take two bites at the
> cherry
> to get the necessary depth .
>
> So......what would you recommend ? And if the Dremel approach , which bits
> would you suggest ( and where do you source yours - I'm in the UK )? If I
> botch
> the groove , I'll just turn another bowl , so I'm prepared for a method
> which
> has its failures , but I want to produce a crisp and neat jigsaw effect .
>
> I'd be grateful for any advice on this , apart from the obvious one - to
> give
> up ;>(
>
> Robert,
> Poole,
> Dorset,
> England
>
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