[Woodcarver]RoroZip- How to carve a deep , long , narrow , winding groove

[85006]

Not long ago, I attempted to get a flexible shaft for my Dremel Advantage, 
the discontinued copy of the Rotozip direct from Dremel.  While talking to a 
lady in their customer service dept, I asked her why they discontinued the 
Advantage since it was a great product, heavier duty than the Dremel rotary 
tool, and had features that the Rotozip lacked.  She said that it was 
discontinued because Dremel is now the owner of Rotozip and they are 
improving the product, adding a flex shaft to the Rotozip line, and 
incorporate more Dremel-like functions and bits.  I am very happy with my 
Advantage.  If you can find one, it is a winner of a product.  It has 
variable speed, much more power and even a two handled router adapter.  You 
can still pick them up on ebay.

Arnie
Sliver and Slice


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry Robertson" <workinginwood at hotmail.com>
To: <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Woodcarver]RoroZip- How to carve a deep , long , narrow 
,winding groove



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> Hi Joe,

>

> I've been thinking of getting either a RotoZip or a Trimmer to have more 

> power than the Dremel.  The available info I could find on the RotoZip is 

> a little sketchy.  I believe a plunge router attachment is available which 

> would be advantage in doing string inlay but from what I could understand 

> the bits are restricted to one shank size (something like 5/16") which 

> would greatly limit it use.  Is this true?

>

> Thanks,

>

> Larry

>

>

>

> Larry Robertson, WorkingInWood

> Colchester, Ontario, Canada

> http://www.picturetrail.com/workinginwood

>

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>  From: "Joe Dillett" <jdillett at thecarvingshop.com>

>  Reply-To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>

>  To: "[Woodcarver]" <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>

>  Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] How to carve a deep , long , narrow , winding 

> groove

>  Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 10:55:29 -0600

>  DONATIONS to the Woodcarver Mailing List can be made using PayPal OR 

> regular mail. Click this link: 

> http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html

>  Hi Robert,

>

>  I just tried it and it works. I used my Roto-zip with a 1/8-inch diameter 

> Standard Point Drywall bit designed for easy control. I cut a 1/8-inch 

> wide (3.18 mm) to 1/4-inch (6.25 mm) depth in 4 passes in cherry. There 

> was no chatter and very easy to control. I tried it at full speed 30K RPM 

> with just a little burning. I tried it with a speed reducer, reducing the 

> speed to about half, with no burning.

>

>  The Roto-zip is not the type of motor designed for speed reduction 

> however I've been using a speed reducer on mine for years. I will say that 

> it is not recommended and could shorten the life of your Roto-zip. The 

> speed reducer I use is cheap. It a Router Speed Control 110V/15Amp for 

> universal (AC/DC), series DC, motors (15 Amps max).

>

>  These dry wall bits are high speed steel, not carbide, so you'll be using 

> a few to cut all those grooves.

>

>  Joe Dillett

>  The Carving Shop

>  645 E. LaSalle St. Suite 3

>  Somonauk, IL. 60552

>  (815) 498-9290 phone

>  (815) 498-9249 fax

>  http://www.thecarvingshop.com

>  jdillett at thecarvingshop.com

>  http://www.carvingmagazine.com Carving Magazine web site and Readers 

> Forum

>  http://www.carvingmagazine.com/chat/chat.shtml Live Chat for Carving 

> Magazine.

>  http://community.webshots.com/user/joe_dillett

>  http://www.citizenactions.org

>  **************************************************

>

>  ----- Original Message ----- From: <RbrtHillier at aol.com>

>  To: <woodcarver at six.pairlist.net>

>  Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 6:50 PM

>  Subject: [Woodcarver] How to carve a deep , long , narrow , winding 

> groove

>

>

>  >DONATIONS to the Woodcarver Mailing List can be made using PayPal OR

>  >regular mail. Click this link:

>  >http://wwwoodcarver.com/WWWList/WWWList.html

>  >

>

>

>  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>

>  >I'd be grateful for advice on this : I want to carve into the

>  >outside of a

>  >turned wooden bowl ( say 300mm or twelve inches in diameter ) the

>  >pattern of a

>  >jigsaw puzzle . The figuring of the wood will then be the jigsaw's

>  >pattern .

>  >In between the "pieces" of the jigsaw will be the deep , long ,

>  >narrow ,

>  >winding groove that I''ll carve . I'll then fill the groove with a

>  >coloured resin

>  >. The groove must not penetrate through to the bowl's inner surface

>  >, so I

>  >can't use a saw . I want the groove to be narrow , say 3mm or an

>  >eighth of an

>  >inch maximum . Depth of groove about 5mm or two tenths of an inch .

>  >The "pieces"

>  >of the jigsaw will be about 25 by 40 mm or one by one and half

>  >inches in size

>  >, so the groove between the pieces will be quite wiggly in order to

>  >form the

>  >classic knobs and sockets of the "pieces" .

>  >

>  >Now for some questions - am I right in thinking that the only way to

>  >carve

>  >this groove is using a router ? I don't think that hand tools could

>  >do this .

>  >

>  >I've tried it with a full-size router - the problem is in shifting

>  >the

>  >heavy beast around with enough precision so that I can do the fine

>  >detail of the

>  >wiggly knobs and sockets .

>  >

>  >I've also tried it with a Dremel - here the problem is that the

>  >router is so

>  >light that ( with the bits I've tried ) it tends to get dragged

>  >off-course

>  >and the groove has lots of little wobbles in it or places where the

>  >groove

>  >has suddenly widened . Keeping the tool at right angles to the

>  >surface ( this

>  >is needed - it's all part of a cunning plan :>) which I'll unveil

>  >when I get

>  >it to work ) is also difficult for me . Removing the wood in one

>  >pass along

>  >this ( relatively ) deep and narrow groove seems like too much of a

>  >challenge

>  >for Dremel bits , and the tool itself . It's hard enough to guide

>  >the bit in one

>  >pass that I recoil at the thought of having to take two bites at the

>  >cherry

>  >to get the necessary depth .

>  >

>  >So......what would you recommend ? And if the Dremel approach ,

>  >which bits

>  >would you suggest ( and where do you source yours - I'm in the UK )?

>  >If I botch

>  >the groove , I'll just turn another bowl , so I'm prepared for a

>  >method which

>  >has its failures , but I want to produce a crisp and neat jigsaw

>  >effect .

>  >

>  >I'd be grateful for any advice on this , apart from the obvious one

>  >- to give

>  >up ;>(

>  >

>  >Robert,

>  >Poole,

>  >Dorset,

>  >England

>  >

>

>

>  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

>

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