[Woodcarver] Fruitless Mulberry

[George Farrell]

On Nov 17, 2005, at 5:12 PM, Shirley Anne Farrow wrote:


> I am having a Fruitless Mulberry cut down. If the wood is suitable I  

> would appreciate any advice on drying, carving hand tool/power and 

> turning etc.


Hi
   According to a very old book that I have on harvesting wood for 
carving,
the author says to cut the tree into suitable blocks say 18 inches long.
He then says to draw a line across the block about 1/4 of the way from 
the
center of the log and split (or chain saw) along that line.  Then do the
same thing to the other side -- these are the quarter-sawn pieces (his
definition).  What is left contains the very heart of the tree.  
Measure the
remaining piece about 1/4 of the way from the center and split off just 
as
above.  Do the same to the other side.  These are the wainscotting 
pieces.
Throw the heart piece away because it will not dry without cracking.  
The four
saved pieces should have their ends painted with molten wax, varnish or 
even
latex paint and set aside, NOT in the attic of the garage, for 1 year 
per
inch of thickness.
   The reason for doing it this way is due to the fact that wood 
contracts on
drying.  It contracts more tangential to the growth rings than it does 
radially.
If the tangent to a growth ring does not change direction across a 
piece by
too much, then the stresses set up by the drying process will be less 
than the
split rending strength and the wood can stabilize.  This is not 
possible in
the wood near the heart.

Happiness is a tall boat and a breeze to fill her sails
Have a good day
http://none332.home.mchsi.com
George
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